Schiaparelli couture fall 2021

Let’s reiterate here and be reminded that creations of the couture are not about being commercial and in most cases push the envelope as well as afforded by possibly 1% of the female clientele on a worldwide basis. It is extravagant. Sometimes over stated and in many cases incomparable to any other facet of fashion.

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Case in point is Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry whose theme was matador this season incorporating the DNA, vocabulary and iconography that once belonged to Elsa Schiaparelli. The embroideries are sublime, there are pieces that are in their own way commercial and then there are pieces that push the envelope to cartoonish especially in the accessory areas and in scale.

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In many ways much of what you see is overstatement... almost to the point of absurd but then again that’s what couture is all about. It’s fantasy, it’s no holds barred but what is missing here is the fact that the eponymous designer did in fact design some exquisite clothes that did not push the envelope to the edge and were in fact simply conceived. A few more “palette cleansers” might has softened the shock of much of it.

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I’m sure Roseberry has developed a cult like clientele who is will to pay in the 5 and 6 figure range to own one of these 21^st century iterations of Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli ....Haute Couture spring 2017

Never having any expectation can work to one’s advantage when seeing the first of the Spring '17 Haute Couture showings in Paris. As known, couture is not for “commercial use” at least for us mere mortals, so my usual parameters of judgment don’t necessarily apply. What absolutely does apply is that these clothes are a joy to behold. 

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Bertrand Guyon delves into the archive and retrieves the DNA, humor and iconography of the late designer and deftly creates a Schiaparelli for the 21^st century. The colors are exuberant, the silhouettes are easy to understand, occasionally a bit retro and the prints and palette are just wonderfully, at lack of a better word, happy, maybe even jubilant! There is a variety in its construction from the softest flou to the rigidity of a brocade blazer or smoking but no matter as the clothes reek of femininity and this is the time when it is most needed. By the way, it should be noted that by feminine I mean just that and not feminine or sexy because of tits and ass which seems to be the easy way out these days to achieve the look. Imagine that, grown up clothes by a grown up designer helming a great heritage brand … wrap your head around it!

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The ghost of Elsa lives in these clothes without a doubt and it is Guyon who breathes life back into her reputation and her imagination. Since this is all about the client, my guess is that there will be a lot of very rich ladies who will be very happy to make to the pilgrimage to Maison Schiaparelli for a healthy dose of 21^st century fashion from one of the most revered brands in fashion history. 

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PS ... if there was negative to be pointed out it might be some of the footwear but happily the clothes are the source of attention here!

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Schiaparelli ... Haute Couture Fall 2014/5

WHOA! Let’s get this straight right from the get go. For his freshman outing at the brand, Marco Zanini presented this highly generic and not even mildly referenced collection which to my eye was … well... meh! To say that Suzy Muchless and I saw different collections is an understatement. This season he not only hit the DNA  button but he slammed it with a leaden hand and maybe he fell on it! Me thinks that the ES was a nice touch …once! The hats would have been fab if they were not on the head of EVERY model, but it was the heart that was most successfully played out albeit not every time!

This go round provided us with Elsa Schiaparelli circa the decade of the 40’s and is complete with supersized broad shoulders, chubbies and over exaggerated dressmaking. The clothes suffered really by being direct copies rather than inspired by or referenced to and that is an invitation to disaster. .. Not to mention we went a wee bit overboard with the very Schiaparelli inspired accessories. .. Ya think? Let’s call this a visual gluttony of sorts. What comes to mind is “what she couldn’t wear, she carried!”

I understand that the designer is still trying to gain his footing and put his imprimatur on the brand but hell, he didn’t have to do a 180. Honestly, it is a lot of overdone and over conceived clothes. Haute Couture is all about perfection in the details and the exquisite manufacture of a garment but my  eyes saw a lot of sloppily made pieces that really didn’t live up to the hype of the season. Please take note here that even if the clothes were flawlessly designed, poorly rendered pieces are ... well ... inexcusable!

Okay, so calming down here, I can say that there were some beautiful dresses albeit retro in feeling and some beautiful embellishments but overall this is much more of a costume wardrobe for a period movie than it is a collection of clothes for the so called modern 21^st century couture client. The happy medium, when it comes to the overall timbre of the collection has not yet been found … or at least I hope it hasn’t been found, so I remain hopeful. What strikes me is that when YSL did the 40s collection and everyone was up in arms over it, the clothes still retained a slick chic about them as was the case with Ungaro as well but that has not happened here save for maybe 5 pieces. Then if I really wrack my brain here I see an awful of what reminded me of Gaultier who might have been referencing Schiaparelli in his collections expect JPG did it better!

Well, all I can say is Bon Chance Marco! Better luck next time!

Schiaparelli ... Haute Couture spring 2014

After the one off collection executed by the immensely talented Christian Lacroix, this latest Haute Couture collection for the house of Schiaparelli was one of the most hotly and eagerly anticipated of the season. Besides the waiting for this collection there was also the game of who would be named as creative director/ designer and that momentous position went to Marco Zanini.

I always thought that Mr. DellaValle was quite smart but alas that can be proven as an incorrect t assumption when viewing this collection especially in the aftermath of the Lacroix tour de force.as for Ms. Khelfa, well I am not quite sure of her credentials as I am always hesitant about situations like hers. It brings to mind a similar analogy that even if you stand in a garage you can’t become a car!

As far as the track record of Mr. Zanini, I was never a huge fan but in this case I was hoping that he would assume a more “adhering” pretense for the collection but alas, that too fell apart upon seeing this collection. My take away here was that he hooked  onto the veiled face as his referential point and then hooked onto Yohji Yamamoto and went from there ! An antidote might have been to learn about Elsa and infuse some of her humor into the collection instead of trying to reinvent the wheel with an old warhorse of a name!

The prints are pedestrian and yes maybe a bit retro in feel but the clothes... yes the clothes are just a big who cares and what for. Yes, haute couture is not exactly based on need and most certainly a key factor is having the wallet to support one’s lust for clothes but why or how do these qualify on any account.

To be honest, the collection is a huge let down and an ever bigger disappointment. If this can reinvigorate the sleeping brand, then, all I can say is that maybe the entire fashion business has lost its mind and it surely its way.

p.s. I Think Suzy may have seen a different collection that this

A "Chat" with CHRISTIAN LACROIX

I am indescribably honored and humbled to have had the one and only Christian Lacroix answer a few questions for me about … well… so many things; some of it pertains to fashion.  He is one of the most emblematic designers of the last 2 decades of the 20^th century and he was the last of a breed to inhabit the world of Haute Couture. Here is a man who has made an indelible mark within the milieu of fashion.

His latest collaboration was with the house of Schiaparelli and he continues to design for the world of the stage whether it is ballet or opera or anything in between.  The man evokes exuberance through his love of color, his humor and his native Arles.  His “like” shall not walk amongst us during this life time and so take a few minutes and learn something about the man known as CHRISTIAN LACROIX!

I need to personally say MERCI BEAUCOUP...  MILLE FOIS... I cannot express my gratitude and respect for this man for giving of his time on this project...let alone for enriching every one of us who has a love of fashion.  Here in his own words ….

1-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?
NONE ??? OR MY FATHER FORTIES WAR BLACK MARKET FABRICS DANDY LOOKS I USED TO WEAR MYSELF ON THE MID SIXTIES ??? OR HUMBLE OLD VINTAGE HOLYDAYS & HOME THINGS CAREFULLY PATCHED, MENDED, OLD FASHIONNED DARNED

2-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?
I DO IGNORE ANY STERLING TRAIT OF MINE
WITH FRIENDS I DO TREASURE MUTUAL UNDERSTANDING, SAME SENSE OF HUMOR
MEANS I HAVE NOT MANY, BUT A HANDFUL IS ENOUGH 

3-What is your bliss?
BEING OFF-DUTY IN A BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE

4-What is your guilty secret?
SO MANY ... !!! AND A SECRET IS A SECRET ...

5-Where is your ideal home?
HIGH VIEW ON SEA AND ISLANDS FROM A CONTEMPORARY HOUSE, HILLS AND MOUTAINS SOMEWHERE IN MEDITERRANEAN AREAS FROM A RUSTIC SIMPLE ROMAN ABBEY OR PALAZZO OR ON NY OR PARIS ROOFS FROM A HIGH PENTHOUSE WITH ROOF GARDEN

6-If you could not be a designer/retailer/etc:, what would you be
A MONK, A HERMIT ARTIST  SKETCHING, READING, CREATING COLLAGES, PAINTINGS, CERAMICS

7-What is on your bedside table right now?
WOODEN CHURCH CHANDELIER, BOOKS, DYPTIQUE VETIVER FRAGANCE, SUN GLASSES, SILVER SKULL, AND AN ABSTRACT IRON SCULPTURE

8-What do you wear to bed?
CHARVET OLD STYLE PYJAMAS WHEN ON TRIP, AND HOME: VINTAGE DJELLABAHS IN SUMMER, OLD JOGGINGS IN WINTER, OR NOTHING

9-What if any, book are you reading now or last read?
MY FRIEND PATRICK MAURIÉS "FRAGMENT D'UNE FORÊT", JUST FINISHED CLAUDE ARNAUD "PROUST CONTRE COCTEAU" ANS STILL READING MY IDOL PHILIPPE JULLIAN (1919-1977) DIARY 1940/1950

10-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”
"CE QUE LE PUBLIC TE REPROCHE CULTIVE-LE, C'EST TOI" (COCTEAU)
"IL Y A PLUS DE LARMES VERSÉES SUR LES PRIÈRES EXAUCÉES QUE SUR CELLES QUI NE LE SONT PAS" (TRUMAN CAPOTE ? OR SAINTE THÉRÈSE D'AVILA ???
AND, FROM ME (!) "BEWARE OF YOUR DEEPEST SOUL & GUTS WISHES, BECAUSE THEY'LL HAPPEN. AND OF COURSE "WORK, WORK, WORK, DON'T WASTE ANY SECOND OR DROP, LIFE IS SHORT AND CHANCE IS ONLY ONCE"

11-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?
ALL THESE SOCIALITES, MODELS AND ICONS FROM 40/50/60/70’s VOGUE OR BAZAAR. CHIC STOPPED WITH THE 80’s ...

12-What is the best advice you ever received?
"PUT SOME ICE IN YOUR STOMACH" AND "FASHION IS JUST AN ASS/SEX AFFAIR" BOTH FROM THE LATE HEBE DORSEY (A DRAGON AND GODDESS JOURNALIST IN THE HERALD TRIBUNE FROM 60/80, THE  SUZY MENKES OF THE TIMES),

13-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.
SCHIZOPHRENC : ONE ON RUNWAYS ONLY FOR  MAGAZINES. AND THE UNKNOWN LABEL REALLY WORN

14-If you were a retailer, would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store ? or where would you shop?
OF COURSE, AS A RETAILER

15-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?
SEE ABOVE, BUILDING A CONTEMPORARY HOUSE, BUYING A PALAZZO OR ABBEY HIGH ON THE SEA AND A PENTHOUSE WITH A ROOF GARDEN, IF THE "TIME MACHINE" STILL DOESN'T EXIST YET. OPENING A FOUNDATION OR MUSEUM HELPING ARTISTS AND RESEARCH PEOPLE

16-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?
FOR THE MOMENT PROUST, COCTEAU AND PHILIPPE JULLIAN , BECAUSE OF THE BOOK I'M READING OR JUST READ…. OR DEAR CLOSE FRIENDS OF MINE WHO HAS PASSED AWAY TOO YOUNG IN THE PAST TWENTY/THIRTY YEARS

 

17-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?
DEPENDS ON THE MOMENT
RIGHT NOW VANESSA REDGRAVE IN "BLOW-UP" OR KAY KENDALL IN "THE RELUCTANT DEBUTANTE", ELINA LABOURDETTE IN "LES DAMES DU BOIS DE BOULOGNE", ITALIAN MOVIES FROM 50/60, ANOUK AIMÉE IN "8 1/2", RAMPLING IN "THE DAMNED", "MANGANO" IN "THEOREMA"

18-What is the one thing you would change about yourself?
EVERYTHING

19-Whose opinion do you value most?
MY WIFE AND MY FRIEND OLIVIER SAILLARD

20-What store or which designer do you most like to shop in or wear ?
RALPH LAUREN, MARGIELA, COMME DES GARCONS

21-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?
PREFER PAPER FOR SENSUALITY BUT FIND MORE & MORE WONDERFUL DOCUMENTS ON INTERNET

22-Do you have a dream collaborator?
I DON'T THINK SO

23-What is your crowning achievement thus far in your career?
I LIKE MY NEW LIFE IN BETWEEN STAGE COSTUMES DESIGNING, HOTELS DECORATING, EXHIBITION CURATING AND SCENOGRAPHIES AFTER YEARS OF FASHION AND ALSO TRAIN/TRAMWAY DESIGNING

24-What’s your music library like?
NONE, ONLY CLASSIC RADIO

25-What and where is your favorite meal?
ANYTHING WITH GARLIC, OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL, CHEESE, GOOD WINE
AND OF COURSE LOBSTER, CAVIAR, FOIE GRAS
LOVE "JULES CESAR" RESTAURANT IN ARLES (I'LL RUSH THERE IN TWO MINUTES AS SOON AS THIS ANSWERING WILL BE OVER !!!) IN PARIS I'M VERY FOND OF "MEURICE" AND "BRISTOL" BAR AND RESTAURANTS, LE "VOLTAIRE" AND "PETRELLE" TOO