Schiaparelli Haute Couture spring 2019

What I can’t seem to keep from wondering is... what would these clothes look like if they were shown on real models and not teen agers and minus the cowboy boots which were certainly not the direction that haute couture is heading. Then there is the styling issue of those pussy cat bows and that what she couldn’t wear she carried concept with these girls over loaded in stuff. BTW long stringy hair and no makeup didn’t help

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 I think there are some positively exquisite pieces within the collection but boy oh boy when Guyon fell off the cliff it was like leaping from Everest. Some of the prints over powering especially when they were used in pieces where the print hid the workmanship or the design. This is a collection that could have truly used a stronger hand when it comes to editing and styling as I think the overall presentation and take away would be miles apart from what we see here.

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The man is capable and the collections have been reasonably on target in the past but some of this is way out of line and way over the top and not in a good way.

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The fabrications are exquisite, the shapes mostly  very body friendly and for sure the ateliers have been put to the test, one black tulle down in a floral design achieved by gathering and ruching is a work of art for sure  as are some of the dressed that were more structured in more “moldable” fabrics.. The iconic print of lobsters etc. was delightfully fun and really should have been used more than once certainly instead of that ruffles apron front “thing.” Oddly when looking at it as a whole there was something very Lacroix-ish  about it but really the last pieces should have never seen the light of day given how many times it’s been done by many more than just one other designer.

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All in all this is good way to start and it surely good have veered off and gone totally wrong of not for the strength of the clothes themselves.

Schiaparelli haute couture fall 2018

Bertrand Guyon has served up Elsa in the grandest of ways. It is all in your face and honestly some of it wonderfully fantastical and quite beautiful. I wish he has forgone the huge animal headpieces as, for me; they are a great distraction from the clothes themselves. 

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All if the fashionphiles are aware of Elsa’s penchant of r “shocking” and for her wildest imaginings translated into clothing and Guyon gets it across prolifically and deftly. What was so interesting here is that he showed to most over the top extravagant pieces and then as almost a palette cleanser a little black dress which was as much part of her DNA as the extremes she was prone to.

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In essence, Guyon played to his audience, the eponymous designer and used his formidable talents in projecting his vision and capturing the spirit of the brand. When I think of it, there are few collections that can make that claim especially those of the heritage variety.

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Standouts were in tailoring, colorations, patterns and yes of course the fantasy which was integral to what the Schiaparelli MO is all about; without hesitation I can state that the jackets were most arresting and of keen interest. She was provocateur, designer, innovator, stylist, art lover, audacious and antagonist in many ways. It would be my opinion that Guyon stepped into her shoes here with a perfect fit including her sense of irony and humor!

Schiaparelli ....Haute Couture spring 2017

Never having any expectation can work to one’s advantage when seeing the first of the Spring '17 Haute Couture showings in Paris. As known, couture is not for “commercial use” at least for us mere mortals, so my usual parameters of judgment don’t necessarily apply. What absolutely does apply is that these clothes are a joy to behold. 

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Bertrand Guyon delves into the archive and retrieves the DNA, humor and iconography of the late designer and deftly creates a Schiaparelli for the 21^st century. The colors are exuberant, the silhouettes are easy to understand, occasionally a bit retro and the prints and palette are just wonderfully, at lack of a better word, happy, maybe even jubilant! There is a variety in its construction from the softest flou to the rigidity of a brocade blazer or smoking but no matter as the clothes reek of femininity and this is the time when it is most needed. By the way, it should be noted that by feminine I mean just that and not feminine or sexy because of tits and ass which seems to be the easy way out these days to achieve the look. Imagine that, grown up clothes by a grown up designer helming a great heritage brand … wrap your head around it!

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The ghost of Elsa lives in these clothes without a doubt and it is Guyon who breathes life back into her reputation and her imagination. Since this is all about the client, my guess is that there will be a lot of very rich ladies who will be very happy to make to the pilgrimage to Maison Schiaparelli for a healthy dose of 21^st century fashion from one of the most revered brands in fashion history. 

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PS ... if there was negative to be pointed out it might be some of the footwear but happily the clothes are the source of attention here!

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Schiaparelli Haute couture fall 2016

Here's the thing ... This is the first season in a while that I really like this collection but there are things that prevent me from offering a rave about it. Yes, I like it, but no I do not love it.

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Yes I see that Guyon has researched the DNA of the eponymous designer as well as offered his interpretation of her and the brand he now helms. Yes, he actually exhibits the DNA of the brand which is so often over looked especially when it comes to heritage brands.

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What puzzles are the all over prints and then some of the silhouettes; Elsa Schiaparelli was known for her collaborations, her tongue in cheek humor but not really for any particular silhouette. Yes, I get it that there is a focus and emphasis on the shoulder line as well tailoring and details but my conundrum occurs when I know I am looking at haute couture yet I feel like I'm looking at pret a porter which is disturbing. Then suddenly I ask myself " can haute couture be commercial?"  and that is not meant to be a slur.

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My favorite pieces are a gold sequin degrade, the all gold gown, the Charles Jamesian quilted jacket and the cellophane fringe pieces. KUDOS to Bertrand Guyon fro staying the course and making headway towards the reinvented re-imagined Schiaparelli.

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