Monday, January 21, 2019

Schiaparelli Haute Couture spring 2019


What I can’t seem to keep from wondering is... what would these clothes look like if they were shown on real models and not teen agers and minus the cowboy boots which were certainly not the direction that haute couture is heading. Then there is the styling issue of those pussy cat bows and that what she couldn’t wear she carried concept with these girls over loaded in stuff. BTW long stringy hair and no makeup didn’t help
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 I think there are some positively exquisite pieces within the collection but boy oh boy when Guyon fell off the cliff it was like leaping from Everest. Some of the prints over powering especially when they were used in pieces where the print hid the workmanship or the design. This is a collection that could have truly used a stronger hand when it comes to editing and styling as I think the overall presentation and take away would be miles apart from what we see here.
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The man is capable and the collections have been reasonably on target in the past but some of this is way out of line and way over the top and not in a good way.
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The fabrications are exquisite, the shapes mostly  very body friendly and for sure the ateliers have been put to the test, one black tulle down in a floral design achieved by gathering and ruching is a work of art for sure  as are some of the dressed that were more structured in more “moldable” fabrics.. The iconic print of lobsters etc. was delightfully fun and really should have been used more than once certainly instead of that ruffles apron front “thing.” Oddly when looking at it as a whole there was something very Lacroix-ish  about it but really the last pieces should have never seen the light of day given how many times it’s been done by many more than just one other designer.
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All in all this is good way to start and it surely good have veered off and gone totally wrong of not for the strength of the clothes themselves.

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