Berluti’s loss is Zegna’s gain.
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Keep in mind that Zegna will always be classic clothing brand as in suitings but in the past decade or so they have expanded their reach by expanding their vision of how their clientele might dress when not in a suit. Yes, there is Z Zegna but that tends to skew younger than the eponymous brand
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Alessandro Sartori comprehends what it means to massage a trend ... meaning it still is more stylistically forward than the norm but it does not push the envelope to the point of absurdity. Sartori understands nuance and details as well as that massaging of newness can still be achieved while retaining the DNA of the brand… whether it’s the 1/4 top pockets on a blazer or suit jacket or its asymmetrical closure. You might even notice an inch and a half or two inch cuff on printed pants where it’s barely noticeable, the outerwear and knits are outstanding in their diversity and design even though there may not be all that much that’s new here but it is how the pieces of the puzzle are assembled.
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Sartori's skillset allows him to offer chic mendwear, he understands sprezzatura and he gets the concept of turned out and while Zegna may not be a monetarily accessible to most, the collection possesses “looks” of distinction. He tweaks the proportions, the layering, the prints, the colors and silhouettes. The clothes are modern and yet classically rooted offering an appeal to some who might never have dared to buy pieces such as these.
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I tip my hat to the powers that be and to Signor Sartori for giving us well designed fresh and appealing clothes that span age categories and will for the most part withstand the test of time
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