Thursday, January 10, 2019

Berluti spring 2019


Alessandro Sartori, Haider Ackermann and now Kris Van Assche holds the reins for Berluti. So now you can see the demise of what was once a wildly sophisticated and soigné collection leaning on the classics to a more trendy mood when Haider came upon the scene and now you see what happens when trend and slick fly out the window when a designer thinks his client is 20 something and not 30, 40 or 50 something or more.
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High water pants, buttock clinging tailoring, logo tee shirts, bombers, track suits and leather jeans suddenly come under the awning of one of the more expensive collections once known as a go to resource for some of the most wildly expensive and innovative footwear. In place of that you have Frankenstein leaden shoes or Adidas knock offs and shoes aimed mainly at the trendoid crowd. Since price tags don’t hang off the clothes or shoes why bother? 
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There is nothing boastful or new about any of it except of course that they are impeccably made so you can carry a sign that says these shoes cost 1200 or maybe 2200 dollars because they are Berluti even though they look like they came from Footlocker or Payless and the same goes for the clothes except the stores would be H&M or Zara. **please take note of the absurd range of accessories such as the ombré croco briefcase that atches a sweater to the Peter Berlin cap ( google it) or the droopy deep vee tunic.
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Apparently gentlemen of taste and substance are getting their menu for tastefully slick and well-tailored apparel trimmed down to a scant few resources. Dior men's is head and shoulders above this and will no doubt be gaining an audience because of this cavalcade of no taste.
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Yes, the world of fashion is changing but it hasn’t changed that much that there is a clown bus on every corner and some fool willing to pay 1000s to be stared at like a circus freak rather than being ogled at for being well groomed and impeccably turned out.

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