Well if you had any doubt as to why this man was shown the door at Calvin then this should seal the deal for you. It has been written he didn’t connect with the customer … well what customer is he connecting with here? Well that and locking horns with the CEO of PVH and the company losing a few hundred million bucks due to his inability to carry out his duties and be a spendthrift!
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Yes the tailoring is beautiful but this was a holds barred coats collection of same old same old silhouettes either stretched out in length or of exaggerated proportion. He does indeed give new meaning to the what a helmet head looks like … his has triple chin straps and well you know the other! Yes the world is waiting for reefer coats with contrast rifle patches, double breasted pea coats/jackets, chesterfield coats minus the velvet collars, anoraks to the ankles as well yet still another trench coat and bathrobe coat. The, the palette was , well different… I’m hardly shy about color but somehow fuschia, leopard, aquamarine, bois de rose, royal and yellow all in the same collection that is supposed to be taken dead seriously seems a bit off.. ya think?
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Then we come upon coats and sweaters with medallions hanging off of them for whatever reason the boy genius will supply when he enthuses and espouses on his influences and inspirations. Lest us forget the slapping on of photos that he is so in love with and still persists in doing. He still doesn’t understand that the all that blah blah blah doesn’t sell clothes and you’d think after becoming designer poison in the USA that he would have the common sense to go all out in this collection to make sure it was out of this world. As I have said so many times, hubris and ego are a designer’s worst enemies and just overflowing with with truckloads of self-importance in case the others aren’t enough. Despite his bursting ego, one of the most startling things was so true and that was outside the fashion community he is RAF who?
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This is the reason why Raf could never design a big brand because it is never about catering to any kind of mass whether it is the 3% who might buy from top shelf collections or worse yet a Middle American mass brand like Calvin.
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