Never having any expectation can work to one’s
advantage when seeing the first of the Spring '17 Haute Couture showings in Paris. As
known, couture is not for “commercial use” at least for us mere mortals, so my
usual parameters of judgment don’t necessarily apply. What absolutely does
apply is that these clothes are a joy to behold.
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Bertrand Guyon delves into the archive and retrieves
the DNA, humor and iconography of the late designer and deftly creates a
Schiaparelli for the 21st century. The colors are exuberant, the silhouettes
are easy to understand, occasionally a bit retro and the prints and palette are
just wonderfully, at lack of a better word, happy, maybe even jubilant! There
is a variety in its construction from the softest flou to the rigidity of a brocade
blazer or smoking but no matter as the clothes reek of femininity and this is
the time when it is most needed. By the way, it should be noted that by
feminine I mean just that and not feminine or sexy because of tits and ass
which seems to be the easy way out these days to achieve the look. Imagine
that, grown up clothes by a grown up designer helming a great heritage brand …
wrap your head around it!
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The ghost of Elsa lives in these clothes without a
doubt and it is Guyon who breathes life back into her reputation and her imagination.
Since this is all about the client, my guess is that there will be a lot of
very rich ladies who will be very happy to make to the pilgrimage to Maison
Schiaparelli for a healthy dose of 21st century fashion from one of
the most revered brands in fashion history.
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PS ... if there was negative to be pointed out it might
be some of the footwear but happily the clothes are the source of attention
here!
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