Well, the good news is that what’s her name has decided to
forego printed tee shirts and an overabundance of sheer for couture. On the
flip side, she hasn’t quite shed her Valentino days. The mind boggles that with
an archive as vast as Dior and the talents that are at your fingertips how does
a designer go from the funereal to the woodland nymph without skipping a beat.
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The tailored segments (ode to the BAR) while exquisitely tailored
and rendered sure do have that old lady Jolie Madame kind of vibe with those
silly lengths and all-encompassing New Look silhouettes. To call any of it
modern is patently absurd. What Maria Grazia Chiuri hasn’t retired is that
menopausal palette that was so pervasive when she was at Valentino, likewise
for her idea of prints, the cape like silhouette and that foreboding monastic
aura. To say that it is all odd is an understatement as they seem to lack an elegance and an air of refinement that is
associated with the brand.
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The collection seems to wander in no particular direction despite
the so called fantasy ball theme. One has to wonder what all of it would look like
without the silly headdresses and with normal shoes. Yes, no question that the
clothes are perfection in terms of quality but the design is severely lacking
and so is the content/direction. Who is wearing all these tulle confections with pleats and
where are the divinely chic and slick clothes that might have segued from the
opening exits... in essence where’s the flow, where’s the connect and yes, couture is all
about piece by piece yet the premise is still that it is shown as collection.
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In the end, it is better than expected but nowhere near what
it could be. The question that always comes to mind is who is whispering in her
ear? On the whole the clothes look contrived and a bit heavy handed with a
mentality of throwing everything against the wall to see what sticks. Maybe
what I am trying to convey is that the clothes have no grace, so much looks
heavy handed … if you catch my drift.
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PS... Can we talk about the sudden single bursts of color
like grass green and tangerine … why?
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