One is reminded of the phrase
“the return of the prodigal son” … of course not in its original context but
just the assemblage of words and the idea of the phrase.
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So let’s switch gears a bit
and go from pre-fall of women’s to full on fall in menswear. The reason for the
switch is Ermenegildo Zegna and its new creative director Alessandro Sartori who has returned to his home via a
detour at Berlutti. So, this is his return engagement as a full on creative director
for one of the most revered and respected heritage menswear brands and if I had
to use one word to describe his latest efforts, I might be forced to say BRAVO!
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As most
will know that Zegna is a textile family business that has morphed into one of
the most all-encompassing and pervasive international vertical brands. Once thought
of as the sine qua non of men’s suits, the company has forged ahead into real
honest to goodness wardrobe dressing for fashionable men of any age. Once known
as a businessman’s go to brand even before and after the surge of Armani, Zegna
has broken ground with Satori’s return as well as the work done by his
predecessor Stefano Pilatti.
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This collection
is all about texture and fabrication with the pitch perfect palette of a very discerning
eye. The quilting, the soft pants and even the “jogger” esthetic is all combined
to render what most should see as a chic alternative to rigid buttoned up
dressing. Is it for everyone? ... Not a chance! To me this is grown up fashion
for men, not the trendoid “look at me” variety aimed at fashionphiles of the label
conscious. Of course all this comes at a price but personally I see it as all
about the look and what the designer conveys through the collection.
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See what
fashion can be minus the gimmicks and sight gags that the media seems to eat up
and promote as if to be taken seriously. BTW, do not overlook the underpinnings
and the incredible knits!
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