Haute Couture Spring 2014.. Stephane Rolland .. Yanina

There is a difference between what one can term modern and what one might deem as futuristic. Prevailing ideas seem to indicate that Cardin or Courreges might be classified as futuristic for the their times and that Dior (Raf) or Balenciaga( Wang) should be given the descriptor of modern.

I prefer to think that Stéphane Rolland is a combination of both modern and futuristic. Both seem to suit him far better than the aforementioned two who talk too much and design too little. Monsieur Rolland designs clothes that demand attention and rightfully so. His clothes are not for wall flowers and yet there is a very old school kind of feeling to these couture creations. He is apparently a master of consrtuction and has never met a flange,a ruffle or a fabrication that he couldn’t train to his liking. He is another designer who designs rather than mumbles inspirations and arcane intellect yet the clothes are unmistakably  and unabashedly his .. now, isn't that special in today's day and age?

As for Ms. Yanina she is a throwback  to the old days of couture as well as those of Mother Russia. I have watched her collection for a couple of years and as I can now  say they are improving  yet they seem  to sort of be idling.  Firstly the head gear has got to go; time has passed and there is no reason to continue that sort of thing as no one dresses  like that unless you are Sheikah Mozah and she is not shopping  here! 

The petal dresses have become a signature of hers but they are growing increasingly tiring as color cannot disguise repetition. Her discovery of embroidery on tulle has now consumed her  which in most cases is not what it could be. Then there is the what I  refer as the Adam and Eve dress or the Swan Lake dress ... use your imagination ...  and those dresses that seem to have something  growing out of their  bodices. There needs to be some editing  or design refinements as they seem  to start out great and finish not so great. The water color prints are effective and perhaps should have been further explored. I am pleased to see that she gave up those horrendous platform shoes as the pumps do lend a much more sophisticated vibe to the collection.

Zuhair Murad Spring Haute Couture 2014

This is a collection of which I know little about but I always watch season after season. For Spring 2014. Mr. Murad seems to have moved far past the peek a boo looks popularized by J Lo in his gowns and stage outfits. With this collection, I can sense that he has grown up so to speak or even matured, so to speak!

Without question, there is flawless execution and embellishments which are not used sparingly and yet the clothes appear to be NOT over done! Don’t get me wrong I am not about to compare these clothes to the minimalism of Jil Sander but the embroideries are integral to the designs rather than just added, if you catch my drift. If my memory serves me, there is a larger variety of silhouettes and necklines as well varying degrees of sexiness. The femininity factor is always full on! What jars my eye the most if that below the knee length which always seems to detract the proportion and beauty of those specific styles; again that is me! On the plus side are the few crepe pieces and separated which meld so well into the collection as whole and really there should have been some more of that to balance out all the embellished pieces.

Okay, stunners were the white tuxedo dress, not new but nonetheless exquisitely done, the black lace pants suit or 2 piece, a citrusy yellow draped satin number which revealed a tulle and hyacinth colored embroidery, the off the shoulder pieces and an aqua georgette with feathers. Oh yes and the zebra number too but the fact is there were no losers here which is surely saying a lot considering what we have seen in the past 3 days.

I am sure the genius regurgitators will not find this as modern as Dior or as wonderful as Schiaparelli but I’ll take this hands down when it comes to the heading of Haute Couture!

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Haute Couture 2014

We have all come to expect a great show when the headliner is Jean Paul Gaultier and Spring Haute Couture 2014 was no exception. The theme or inspirations this season seem to be showgirls and butterflies and Mr. Gaultier did his usual best to show you a good time.

Make no mistake that with all the bells and whistles that he employs while producing a show like this, he never forgets that the show is about clothes and the theatrics still play a supporting role rather than a starring role. The clothes shown in this collection are products of an amazing talent and imagination that know very few boundaries and rarely disappoints.

Butterflies were imagined and massaged to be reflected in almost every piece which was an amazing feat of art and craft. The ateliers worked overtime to bring these wonders to a runway and that is part of why we hunger for Haute Couture. We crave seeing what can be done by human hands when there is a maestro leading the orchestra… so to speak.

The question is now, the clothes and the answer is that Mr... Gaultier craftily incorporates the house codes and vocabulary into every collection and this was no exception. What one hoped for was a special brand of slick chic that JPG has previously shown in his couture collections. While these clothes were exquisitely executed, the overall tenor of the presentation leaned more towards a ready to wear look rather than a couture look. By this, I mean to say that there was a certain polish that was missing, some aura of grandness that he has exhibited in earlier collections. For me, this was sorely missed.

Yes, amazing innovations of technique and fabrication were present and accounted for but there was something lacking. The bravura was there, the sense of humor was present but again one would have hoped for the more serious and couture side of his brain to have been on display.

In the end, I have little doubt that this season will resonate with the JPG ladies from around the globe who revel in his designs and can’t wait to parade out in one these creations.

So, love it? … NO!   Hate it? ABSOLUTELY NOT!!  We can safely say … I felt short somewhat changed this season!

Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2014

Since my reviews are based on observation, opinion and knowledge, this article addresses the haute Couture collection for Spring 2014 on its own merit with no outside “inspirations” or press fed morsels to substantiate or explain the clothes. The clothes get to speak solely on what can be seen not explained.

With all that being said let it also be stated that in no way can anyone with any smarts, when it comes to fashion, find any fault with the impeccable execution of these clothes. The finish, the fabrics and any type of embellishments are with very little equal ... in other words quite superb!

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli need to ditch a few things and the sooner the better. Time for the center parted slicked hair to go, the almost no make-up look and it is definitely time to add an accessory or 2 … like maybe earrings and a necklace... something!!! Next up is this overriding monastic, Medieval, funereal  and just dreary mood caused by the drab palette, the robe like or even cloak like silhouettes, and the expressionless face of the models. Why waste all these staggering embellishments on these maudlin colors and shapes. While on the subject of shapes, can we ask they there is such an overlap of styles from ready to wear to couture? Can we ask how you go from solid totally covered up in almost nun like attire to an almost naked transparent and naked tulle confection?

Particular to this collection, is this African, tribal, ethnic or Lion King references which seems odd for sure especially when incorporated into clothes that cost in the 10s of thousands of dollars. There is also a proliferation of caftan looks which is somewhat perplexing given their costs. A highlight of the collection was the leopard gown, which is just exquisite. The what must be explained is  the other fringed pieces in that group as well as the “wild life” inspired dresses. Are we looking at supposed day clothes, which were certainly lacking, or were we looking at Joseph’s dream coats done in monotone?

The designing duo has surely carved a name for themselves but alas they might be better served to wake up and quit listening to those who have been whispering in their ears since the start. Let’s see some vibrant exciting clothes instead of clothes that inspire dirges religious rites! Let’s see some color and now that it comes to mind THESE CLOTHES ARE SUPPOSEDLY SPRING!!!!!!! The question is where?