There is a difference between what one can
term modern and what one might deem as futuristic. Prevailing ideas seem to
indicate that Cardin or Courreges might be classified as futuristic for the
their times and that Dior (Raf) or Balenciaga( Wang) should be given the
descriptor of modern.
I prefer to think that Stéphane Rolland is a
combination of both modern and futuristic. Both seem to suit him far better
than the aforementioned two who talk too much and design too little. Monsieur
Rolland designs clothes that demand attention and rightfully so. His clothes
are not for wall flowers and yet there is a very old school kind of feeling to
these couture creations. He is apparently a master of consrtuction and has
never met a flange,a ruffle or a fabrication that he couldn’t train to his
liking. He is another designer who designs rather than mumbles inspirations and
arcane intellect yet the clothes are unmistakably and unabashedly his .. now, isn't that
special in today's day and age?
As for Ms. Yanina she is a throwback to the old days of couture as well as those
of Mother Russia. I have watched her collection for a couple of years and as I
can now say they are improving yet they seem to sort of be idling. Firstly the head gear has got to go; time has
passed and there is no reason to continue that sort of thing as no one
dresses like that unless you are Sheikah
Mozah and she is not shopping here!
The petal dresses have become a signature of
hers but they are growing increasingly tiring as color cannot disguise
repetition. Her discovery of embroidery on tulle has now consumed her which in most cases is not what it could be.
Then there is the what I refer as the
Adam and Eve dress or the Swan Lake dress ... use your
imagination ... and those dresses that
seem to have something growing out of
their bodices. There needs to be some
editing or design refinements as they
seem to start out great and finish not
so great. The water color prints are effective and perhaps should have been
further explored. I am pleased to see that she gave up those horrendous
platform shoes as the pumps do lend a much more sophisticated vibe to the
collection.
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