Having been a fan of Andrew Gn for quite some time, this
collection registers seismically on the Richter scale. Mr. Gn is hardly a man
who believes in minimalist fashion and yet the clothes he executes and designs
are rarely overdone. In this “non-season,” Andrew Gn proves that yes there are
designers who design and those who believe that every season deserves a
statement of some kind.
To my eye, these clothes are just exquisitely sharp and
rendered in the most flawless way. Sharp does not mean harsh or rigid, it
means perfectly pressed and hemmed, every shoulder line perfection and every
look is put together. The “extended” jewel tone palette is superb. The only
detraction here is the model that seems abnormally long from the waist down and
abnormally short form the waist up but even that cannot take away from what one
sees here.
There are dresses, gowns, suits, blouses, laces, wools,
brocades and embroideries of almost unequaled beauty; this is of course to say
that you must first be predisposed to Mr. Gn’s vision of fashion. He is in his
own way an old school designer who manages to massage his vision into the 21st
century by incorporating old school techniques. Once again, these are clothes
of the “non blah blah blah” school that require no explanation and no need of
esoteric inspirations ... in other words the clothes speak for themselves. A novelty at best these days!!
Of great interest here are a few blouses which are
incredibly beautiful, the laces, the gowns and of course the Gn idea of perfect
day clothes. He surely emphasized paisley, safariennes and embraced jackets of
almost every proportion. One of the great facets of his clothes is that they
never look heavy handed, no matter the weight of the fabric; he has what some
would say “a very light hand.”
Personally the shorts didn’t make much sense to me but then
again I am not 25 rich and fabulous enough to wear them!
Seeing is believing so here is a much edited look at Andrew
Gn for pre-fall 2014….
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