Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Spring 2014

Alexis Mabille and the Spring 2014 Haute couture collection exhibit a calm and chic that betray his years. There is a great restraint in palette and embellishment where most designers would pile it on in any season when the collection is haute couture. This restraint and the exquisite simplicity of the clothes set the designer apart from the flock.

The usual scenario for couture is heavy embroideries and literally bells and whistles galore but not at the house of Mabille. The clothes are a study of serene beauty and discretion. The result proves to be refreshing in a world of feathers and flou.

The choice of embellishment is simple in comparison but intricate and in some ways has a very Elizabethan feeling while the laces are of magical delicacy. The slim crepe columns are of particular beauty and the wildly extravagant pleated satin coat was a sharp contrast given its excess. Less effective were the body cut outs and some of the satin pieces which appeared a bit heavy but that’s my eye comparing to the almost goddess quality of the more minimal shapes. What is interesting is that one sensed there would be more coming and yet this was more of a capsule collection that makes its statement quickly and simply.

Of note was the superb bow lace and embroidered ensemble as it was such a signature style and yet so almost totally disguised in its monotone whiteness. Indeed simplicity was the rule of the thumb here and it would have served the designer even more had he subtracted the butterflies from the show and allowed the clothes and their environment to do all the talking.

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