Alexis Mabille and the Spring 2014 Haute couture collection
exhibit a calm and chic that betray his years. There is a great restraint in
palette and embellishment where most designers would pile it on in any season
when the collection is haute couture. This restraint and the exquisite simplicity
of the clothes set the designer apart from the flock.
The usual scenario for couture is heavy embroideries and
literally bells and whistles galore but not at the house of Mabille. The
clothes are a study of serene beauty and discretion. The result proves to be
refreshing in a world of feathers and flou.
The choice of embellishment is simple in comparison but intricate
and in some ways has a very Elizabethan feeling while the laces are of magical
delicacy. The slim crepe columns are of particular beauty and the wildly extravagant
pleated satin coat was a sharp contrast given its excess. Less effective were
the body cut outs and some of the satin pieces which appeared a bit heavy but that’s
my eye comparing to the almost goddess quality of the more minimal shapes. What
is interesting is that one sensed there would be more coming and yet this was more
of a capsule collection that makes its statement quickly and simply.
Of note was the superb bow lace and embroidered ensemble as
it was such a signature style and yet so almost totally disguised in its monotone
whiteness. Indeed simplicity was the rule of the thumb here and it would have
served the designer even more had he subtracted the butterflies from the show
and allowed the clothes and their environment to do all the talking.
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