Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Pre-fall 2014.. Antonio Berardi, Vionnet, Nina Ricci

Let it be said now that there is a love hate thing going on between me and these collections. Well, not really hate but my disposition towards these collections is rather erratic due to their inconsistencies in design and philosophy. This season however there is a lot to love from each no matter what the so called DNA might be or whatever they supposedly stand for, there are clothes to be worn by women of style.

Although Antonio Berardi seemed to be stuck on his Balenciaga references, there were some beautiful clothes that one might even imagine a female human being wearing and looking like a human being rather than some fashion freak. In today’s world that is saying something. There was evidence here that this designer designed with imagination and not just regurgitation.

Vionnet is one those resurrected collections that must be looked upon as a brand with no historical DNA other than the name. This season apparently someone did some homework and came up with the pleating idea and it yielded some pretty clothes. Despite the pepto pink, some of which was even pretty, there was something to sink your teeth into here. As I said I was liking what I saw this season and just wish they could find an identity which would contain some of the original DNA as well as some of the reimagined brand. The palette was most appealing while the styling left a lot to be desired.

Nina Ricci, the long revered and historically lady like jolie femme collection has certainly morphed over the years. In its present incarnation, Nina Ricci is young sophisticated and somewhat chic in a very off handed way. What is most distracting is the choice of styling which lends itself to a just laid look. The dishabille factor does nothing to enhance the clothes and in some instances takes the viewer’s imagination on a rather erotic journey of this young woman collecting her clothes in the morning all ready for he walk of shame. For me, it is a collection that must be cherry picked and offers a retailer a real opportunity to build a new breed of “designer” customer.

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