Pre-fall 2014.. Antonio Berardi, Vionnet, Nina Ricci

Let it be said now that there is a love hate thing going on between me and these collections. Well, not really hate but my disposition towards these collections is rather erratic due to their inconsistencies in design and philosophy. This season however there is a lot to love from each no matter what the so called DNA might be or whatever they supposedly stand for, there are clothes to be worn by women of style.

Although Antonio Berardi seemed to be stuck on his Balenciaga references, there were some beautiful clothes that one might even imagine a female human being wearing and looking like a human being rather than some fashion freak. In today’s world that is saying something. There was evidence here that this designer designed with imagination and not just regurgitation.

Vionnet is one those resurrected collections that must be looked upon as a brand with no historical DNA other than the name. This season apparently someone did some homework and came up with the pleating idea and it yielded some pretty clothes. Despite the pepto pink, some of which was even pretty, there was something to sink your teeth into here. As I said I was liking what I saw this season and just wish they could find an identity which would contain some of the original DNA as well as some of the reimagined brand. The palette was most appealing while the styling left a lot to be desired.

Nina Ricci, the long revered and historically lady like jolie femme collection has certainly morphed over the years. In its present incarnation, Nina Ricci is young sophisticated and somewhat chic in a very off handed way. What is most distracting is the choice of styling which lends itself to a just laid look. The dishabille factor does nothing to enhance the clothes and in some instances takes the viewer’s imagination on a rather erotic journey of this young woman collecting her clothes in the morning all ready for he walk of shame. For me, it is a collection that must be cherry picked and offers a retailer a real opportunity to build a new breed of “designer” customer.

Antonio Berardi resort 2014

Let’s start out by saying that the dress that threw a klieg light onto Berardi,  the one Gwynnie wore last April,  certainly wasn’t the best representation of this designer’s work. One would have to assess she sure got the short end of the sartorial stick by wearing it albeit the attention was world class.

Sorry to digress, the Resort 2014 collection displays a designer who has a specific vision laced with very specific influences as well as being in possession of a deft hand when it comes to realizing his designs.   The clothes display an edge and crispness that is at times most appealing and yet might be off putting to some.  The Vasarely inspiration is beautifully rendered as are the other prints except that the florals appear to be a bit Fallish in coloration and might be construed as matronly.

The clothes are anything but relaxed except in rare instances but to my eye, this is a great asset, as the harder edge is visually attractive to the eye.  The workmanship is beautiful, the fit very close to the body and impeccable.  A note here, the clothes are not for everyone, these are clothes for the body and  fashion conscious and  for those whose everyday life might include workout clothes, a gym membership and a yoga mat.

The dresses are beautifully rendered and the pant looks appear to be more extreme in their appeal.  Looks of note are the white lace like and embroidered pants with jacket, the idea of the floating georgette top w/ pant or skirt and the more classic suitings as well as the “demi” peplum top.  The gowns and shorter, dressier pieces are surely the most body conscious and sexy without ever being as blatant as the Gwynnie dress which appears to have been a great misstep in this designer’s career or possibly one of the greater media ploys ever used by a designer!  There are plenty of red carpet worthy pieces here as well for those who want to be noticed and are either genetically blessed or work very hard to stay in fighting shape.