I previously wrote about the yin and yang of fashion implying the good and the bad but here it is about mood, appeal and brand DNA of two notable collections.
Lutz Huelle, without question is an acquired taste, but his collections have evolved over time to reflect his maturation process as well as massaging his brand’s DNA. I’d have to say that this particular collection is probably his most commercial (not meant in a negative sense) and that its appeal will reach a much larger audience. It is timeless and classic and never boring and never either of those qualities in a way you’d expect. You can see it as total looks or you can see it in pieces and this season, I believe that most collections should be seen as pieces and not total looks.
I’m impressed with this man’s talent and how he has morphed over the years from a very quirky trendy kind of “of the moment” look to a more seasonless and ageless one and yet he never surrendered his DNA.
Andrew Gn is a designer one that might compare to the great designers of an era and has revived a seemingly long lost art of fashion design (a collection in its truest sense); his clothes are precise, the suits structured, the embellishments lush but he shares with Lutz a timelessness that is becoming more rare these days, What saddens me greatly is that this collection, which I find to be stunning in color silhouette, fabrications, construction and of course embellishment is more of a wishful thinking one rather than a collection that reflects our times. I certainly cannot say it is commercial in any sense and if anything, I might compare it to the couture rather than to RTW.
Gn presented this stellar collection but we must ask ourselves when and where is any one wearing most of it and that is the sadness. I’d much prefer to appraise the collection without that compelling caveat.
