Here’s the mindset”: The Owl and the Pussycat (Streisand),
Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow (Loren), The Night Porter (Rampling) and then McQueen,
Galliano, Tisci, Lacroix and La Perla! Put it all together and whaddya got ….
???
Sarah Burton once again paid faithful homage to her friend
Alexander McQueen, but this time she leaned on the side of commercially
beautiful and comprehensible without losing any of the DNA. This is a task that
where so many would fail but none are as familiar with the codes of the house
as she. What struck me first were the fabrications which were glorious; from
the black on black cellophane brocades to the eye lash brocades to the most
fragile of lace and then all balanced with embossed leathers, bonded leathers
and patent leather.
The razor sharp tailoring of McQueen was front and center as
the selection of coats and jackets, specifically 2 blush brocade pieces, were a
never ending source of beauty of exhibition of craft. The rigidity of the
tailoring balances with the softness of most dresses made for a collection that
captured the spirit and essence of the man and his brand. Of course the leather
pieces are as amazing as ever as no one crafts skins as this house and with the
greatest of ease and endless possibilities.
Of, course there had to be some extraordinary pieces and yes
there were! The “ode to a rose” pieces
rivaled pieces from any great Haute Couture collection and the leathers that
incorporated the flower in the hems were nothing short of astounding feats of
technique and abilities. The last series of gowns was very beautiful but I keep
going back to the coats, the tailoring, and those rose pieces.
Romantic? ... Yes… very McQueen? Yes ... Commercial? … Well
as commercial as McQueen could ever be… so, Thank You Sarah Burton for a bright
spot in the Paris collections and for being so loyal to your friend who lives
on through you!
PS it really does help when the viewer is not distracted by
the theatrics of fright make up and shoes that defy physical capabilities!
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