Saturday, June 28, 2014

BERLUTI .. SPRING 2015 .. men's

Alessandro Sartori. I salute you!! Bravo!!

It seems rather amazing to me that this brand has so quickly become a high water mark for men’s fashion. There is a reason why these clothes are in demand and it surely is not the price! Please try to remember that less than 5 years ago this was a company that made shoes… albeit very expensive shoes, but for once in a very rare moment of lucidity the brand extension is a perfect fit!

Mr. Sartori, he of the amazingly coincidental last name, certainly makes a sartorial statement here by offering clothes that shriek chic, raffiné, urbanity, soigné, ageless and timeless. This designer indeed does design but he designs without bells and whistles; he designs by massaging his collections with details of the “oh I hadn’t noticed” variety. The details and discreet flourishes are what takes the classic and morphs what was in to what is and will be. The collection evolves and the DNA is every present while the vocabulary expands.

Contour seams, closures, lapels, silhouettes, fabrications, pocket treatments, coloration, presentation, ease and the apparent overall image are all part and parcel of what makes Berluti an almost stand-alone resource in the sea of sameness. Mr. Sartori has done what so many heritage brands are trying to do and that is show their validity and justification within the world of 21st century men’s fashion. 

These are the clothes of the terminally tasteful and for those who have no circus freak fantasies. These are clothes that are just extraordinarily and excruciatingly well made with an appeal that spans generations without effort. These are clothes that some will deem banal and some might even say boring, but I say to them “pffffffft” to steal French colloquialism. Then there are those who will laud it because they are told to as this is the baby of one Antoine Arnault ... is the name familiar?  He has surely cemented himself a place within the corporate hierarchy with this brand which blossomed under his tutelage.

Rather than continue at this laudatory rant I will simply say have a look ... the devil is in the details... look closely as they are there and they are why Berluti will evolve into a mega brand. Most of all please remember this about Alessandro Sartori... he is a designer who designs!

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