Alessandro Sartori. I salute you!! Bravo!!
It seems rather amazing to me that this brand has so quickly
become a high water mark for men’s fashion. There is a reason why these clothes
are in demand and it surely is not the price! Please try to remember that less
than 5 years ago this was a company that made shoes… albeit very expensive
shoes, but for once in a very rare moment of lucidity the brand extension is a
perfect fit!
Mr. Sartori, he of the amazingly coincidental last name,
certainly makes a sartorial statement here by offering clothes that shriek chic,
raffiné, urbanity, soigné, ageless and timeless. This designer indeed does
design but he designs without bells and whistles; he designs by massaging his
collections with details of the “oh I hadn’t noticed” variety. The details and
discreet flourishes are what takes the classic and morphs what was in to what
is and will be. The collection evolves and the DNA is every present while the
vocabulary expands.
Contour seams, closures, lapels, silhouettes, fabrications,
pocket treatments, coloration, presentation, ease and the apparent overall
image are all part and parcel of what makes Berluti an almost stand-alone
resource in the sea of sameness. Mr. Sartori has done what so many heritage
brands are trying to do and that is show their validity and justification
within the world of 21st century men’s fashion.
These are the clothes of the terminally tasteful and for
those who have no circus freak fantasies. These are clothes that are just
extraordinarily and excruciatingly well made with an appeal that spans
generations without effort. These are clothes that some will deem banal and
some might even say boring, but I say to them “pffffffft” to steal French
colloquialism. Then there are those who will laud it because they are told to
as this is the baby of one Antoine Arnault ... is the name familiar? He has surely cemented himself a place within
the corporate hierarchy with this brand which blossomed under his tutelage.
Rather than continue at this laudatory rant I will simply
say have a look ... the devil is in the details... look closely as they are
there and they are why Berluti will evolve into a mega brand. Most of all
please remember this about Alessandro Sartori... he is a designer who designs!
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