Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Lanvin ... Resort 2015

L’affaire Lanvin!

Before I formed any opinion about the collection, there are several overall observations I can make and they are that a good deal of the collection looks like it is 3 sizes too big for the models and yes I know this is part of the dishabille effect, it would have served the collection far better if the models did not have bed head and that I kept seeing YSL references and I mean Yves not the design challenged Hedi!

Since we are speaking in more general terms, my overall opinion of the collection is that I liked it but with reservations. The questions lurking in my mind are #1- are the clothes supposed to fit like this or is this some styling nuance/invention? #2- my mind went from thinking of what Alber had created and built as a chic and sexful collection and was wondering what happened here? #3- how do you go from walking tall and proud to skulking on the walk of shame? #4- what would this collection have looked like if everything wasn’t hanging or falling off the model? BTW... I adore the pointy toe mule!! Tres tres jolie!

The flower at the neck, the trench, definitely the gowns and even some of the pant looks seems to recall the glory of Yves. The peasant skirts, the bows and even the tailored pieces reminded me of YSL even if they sort of were softened up to the extreme of slouchy, if not sloppy. Several of the gowns seemed a bit incongruous within the collection as they were a bit more lady like and reserved than the rest of the collection but they were a beautiful respite from the general mood.

This overriding louche and picked up my clothes from the bedroom floor look would have been far better served if Albers started with the beginning of date rather than with the look of what the cat dragged in at the end of the date. Despite it all, there are great pieces buried in the collection and even some wonderful looks, in particular the floral beaded tuxedo stripe pant and the draw waisted pants and skirts. He managed to infuse the effortless kind of chic that can be so attractive but I just wish it had been done in a much neater and closer to the body kind of way.

So, if you haven’t figured it out, I am not a fan of this sloppiness but I cannot dismiss the collection because of it.

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