Showing posts with label New York Collections. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York Collections. Show all posts

Saturday, February 19, 2022

Norma Kamali fall 2022

 There is something to be said for sticking to your guns. Kamali massages her DNA and hits every trend... according to the media pundits, and yet none of it is trashy seedy or full of smashed down tits, circuitous knotting, midriff cuts outs and OMG not a single plus size model in sight!!!

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Consistency pays off as well as being way ahead of your time since none of this is really all that new for her but she hits the mark. This is how a well thought out collection is brought to fruition. BULLSEYE!

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The images tell the story far better than I could ever hope to do so ... you be the judge!

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Wednesday, October 6, 2021

SPRING 2022... Lessons learned

After 4 major fashion capitals paraded their designers’ newest creations, I thought I’d share what I learned after a seemingly more arduous and lengthier season of the fashion cycle:


·       Designers should not speak as their words rarely make sense with the work they present and if that isn’t bad enough, they get lost in their own pseudo intellectual jibber jabber. The best idea would be to shut up and just let the clothes do the talking!

·       Apparently, most designers seem to think or make believe that this pandemic is over and things shall return as they were ... of course that would be a gross inaccuracy as this pandemic state, while not as severe as it was, is still with us and things will NOT go back to life as we once knew it. Hence showing clothes as if it was just another spring season doesn’t cut it unless one is in complete denial.

·       Reviewers should be forced to offer an opinion and not speak of venues, front rows, inspirations and influencers.  What ever happened to wearability, salability, fit, merchantability and appeal?

·       Heritage brands only exist in name (for the majority) these days as so many designers seem to think they use the archive but if that’s the case how come the clothes, they design have no recognizable signature linked to that brand?

·       Then we come to the definition or how does one design sexy without the obvious nudity, sheerness, second skin dresses, tits and ass?  Apparently, it is defined only at its most base level by the vast majority of designers the world over.

·       Make no mistake there must have been a memo sent to each designer that it would be in their best interest to show bare midriffs, bra tops or bandeaus and my question when, if ever, did you see or will you see women who can afford these collections baring those particular areas of their body during daytime hours or for that matter in the evening and we are not talking at the beach?

·       Since politically correct and politics have entered into the fashion world, I would like to know what is attractive about squeezing a token size 14-16 or 18 into a size 10 dress so that she looks like a sausage in a weenie skin? Are we supposed to think that this is fashionable or that larger women have no mirrors in their homes and lastly how many of these collections ever cut above a size 12 for production?

·       Models have become wind up robots who walk a straight line and exit ... no emotion, no extra bodily movement and absolutely never a smile... in fact they look miserable in the clothes they are wearing. While on the subject, what has happened to perfectly groomed models with make-up and perfect hair as that too has fallen by the wayside. Last aspect is staging which is haphazard at best... day clothes with evening clothes with clothes of no discernible reason.

·       The last issue I will address is shoes... so many look at though they are wearing boxes or books on their feet and if not, then skyscraper stilettos that hurt just looking at them.

I could keep going but think I will end it here and you can add to the list if you are so inclined...feel free!

Saturday, March 27, 2021

Ralph Lauren SPRING 2021 ... see it now ... buy it now

Ralph, as the lone ranger, continues on his show it and buy it in his stores. Some say, including myself at times, that Ralph is repetitive or boring, but there is not one single designer who has managed to tweak and massage his brand’s DNA better than Mr. Lauren... yet its never really boring and never unwearable.

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As you can see, he is well aware of the state of this pandemic world we live in and offers clothes that hopefully within in a few months women will be wearing to go out to lunch, perhaps to some one’s home for dinner or even possibly to a social event while observing all the protocols that have been put in place and continue to change day by day,

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I think I’d like to say that this collection displays a facet of the brand that we rarely see and that is minimalism. No muss, no fuss, very little ornamentation or decoration; just simple beautiful clothes for women of all ages that serve a multitude of purposes and occasions that lie ahead.... hopefully.

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Maybe we can call it Ralph Light, but no matter what you call it, it’s slick, lean, clean, refined and just as much at home in in NYC, Malibu, Beverly Hills, Paris, Milan or Tokyo. To me that is something that few other designers can claim. He designed intelligently, realistically and most of all fashionably!

Sunday, February 14, 2021

PRABAL GURUNG FALL 2021

I can remember it like yesterday when this young man appeared on the scene and I immediately thought well here is the next generation’s Bill Blass. It didn’t take long for Demi Moore to appear in one of delicious creations and I was convinced had the goods to be a 21st century Blass!

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HOW WRONG COULD I HAVE BEEN!

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A brilliant start tuned out to be this seasonal jumble of clothes, some of which I will say are pretty (not many, but some) and every season it’s just clothes and apparently everything old is new again… from the original Ungaro-esque shirring to the puddling mammoth bell bottoms to bare midriffs and so much more.

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My feeling is that when a middling woman’s designer suddenly turns to menswear to bloat a collection that it is a foreboding of what’s to come and it’s not good! There is no cohesion to the collection and no signature which seems to be the M.O. of almost all designers.

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You have a look and see you tell me ... what, what, where, why and does he know something no one else knows?

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Michael Kors Collection resort 2019


The first question that comes to mind is ... "collection of what?"
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One needn’t wonder why their stock isn’t preforming!


Once hailed as one of the great American designers of his generation . 
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Once upon a time he was akin to an updated kind of all American girl kind of clothing, perhaps an updated kind of Ralph Lauren for the “Hipper” girls around town. Always chic and somewhat minimal 
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Now in the quest to stay “relevant” Michael Kors has evolved to this… whatever this is! Tough to force trend via styling
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To his credit... the collection does look like a resort collection but for whom? 
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God Bless him, thank god he is a billionaire who puts his resources to good use!

Monday, June 4, 2018

Alexander Wang ... SPRING 2019


Wang tends not to make political statements on his runway. from a tongue stretching critic and I say WHERE AND WHEN WAS THIS EVER THE CASE?
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As if the fashion calendar and the business of fashion aren’t fucked up enough…. 
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The only aspect of this show that seems to be intriguing is the shift to a June December show schedule. Other that that I am totally confused, addled and thoroughly asea  as to what this is supposed to be and who this is for . To my eye this is H&M, Forever 21 and Fredericks of Hollywood  ... that’s all folks! And this is SPRING!!!!
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The images tell the story 
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PS ... the Depends critics have already gone through the box! Ooh aaah

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Oscar de la Renta resort 2019


Here is a lesson in how a heritage brand evolves. The Monse team has not let go or abandoned the spirit of Oscar. From the broderie anglaise references to the dots and colors, to the tiers, to the elaborate ball gowns . . . they are all present and accounted for with great skill in the translation and evolution.
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What was a bit sad were the blue plaid pieces, some of the toiles and some of the more sportswear type pieces. The point being that there is enough here to please the “new” Oscar customer as well as the one who has morphed with the future of the brand. This is not the ladies who lunch anymore. These are clothes that lack any trend and are slick and chic and in many ways ageless or timeless.
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It’s my opinion that if Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia can hold steady and steer the course of the brand in this direction that there will be great cause for celebration. I don’t even want to know what the so called media elite has to say as their credibility has sunk to a level which equals that of Trumps popularity.
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With all this said ... if we were on American Bandstand I’d give this an 85  ... easy to wear easy to understand and in keeping with the DNA of the eponymous designer! KUDOS!!