Oscar de la Renta pre-fall 2022

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia served up this season by reminding us all this is no longer your mother’s idea of the brand. I actually found quite a bit of it pretty and wearable albeit it is most definitely not aimed at our preconceived notion of who wears and buys this brand.

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What intrigued me most was that sort of degradé cum tie dye segment which I thought was beautiful and then here and there sprinkled with some stunners like the silver pieces and in particular one black suit with a slashed skirt and yes, the over-the-top ball gownish pieces. No, I don’t understand the square cut shorts paired with jackets or the crotch grazing lengths used on some of the dresses but as a whole I found the collection visually appealing on many levels.

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Let it be said that this duo did not totally eradicate the brand’s DNA; They have evolved and massaged it to appeal to a whole new generation of Oscar devotées. For whatever reason, I sense that these 2 designers actually understand and respect the namesake designer so much more than more who helm other marquee brands and present clothes that bear not one thread of mitochondrial DNA.

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Lastly, maybe I’m late to the party by saying that pre-fall which deliver at the start of summer season is no longer fallish in any way ... it has become a sort of bridge between spring summer and actual fall and given how shopping habits have so drastically changed, maybe that’s the logical way to go.

Oscar de la Renta pre fall 2021

Since it is becoming or already is quite apparent that designers have no idea what season they are designing for ...let’s `just call this collection clothes for the future! We have 3 seasons showing at the same time and if you include men’s I’d say that tallies it up to at least 5 seasons all at once so what’s the point of designating a season to a collection.

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Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia delivered a spirited collection of clothes that echo the late Oscar but don’t exactly look like a typical Oscar collection no matter who designed it. It’s fun it’s young it hints at the ebullience we have come to expect from the brand and yet it is simple in its design and wearability… no romance cards required.

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To me the clothes look much more spring like than they look fallish but as said what’s the difference…. the only thing that matters is whether or not these clothes will resonate with the ODLR customer. The designers showed great restraint in not showing a collection of cha cha dresses and frou frou gowns ready for the next black tie since who knows when that will be. These are clothes that are young at heart and occasionally tap into the famous Oscar DNA.

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Do I love it …  no! Do I hate it … NO! do I think the designers are savvy ...well …   HELL, YEAH, I DO! I TIP MY HAT TO THEM IN THESE VERY UNCERTAIN AND UPREDICTABLE TIMES.

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Oscar de la Renta fall 2020

So, while everyone during NYFW is either doing  ruffles, milkmaid dresses, shock and awe or  just clothes for the sake of clothes here we have Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia who have actually done a collection that is exquisitely  rendered, well thought out, and as an extra added attraction  these are clothes you can actually imagine people lusting for and wearing! TAH DAH!

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NYFW has evolved into a sort of freak show that can sit beside London in terms of oddities and eccentricities and just plain over the top look at me clothes. Salability and customer appeal have flown out the window and shopping for a new client every season has flown in. Lest I forget, the plethora of collections that will only be seen once and never again heard from for obvious reasons.

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How can it be that this team build an immaculate collection of clothes for women… an ageless and timeless yet beautiful and in keeping with the legacy of the eponymous designer. While not a great fan of that pouf high low hem, they have managed to make it easier to digest by not making it the only silhouette they offer. The fireworks and Vin Gogh embroideries are perfection as are some of the confections of fringe and tulle and satin. They took you from day to night with lust worthy coats, dresses and separates to extravagant evenings; clothes you might actually see on the street.

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Favorites included the grey flannel pants and coat, the palette and one every so understated black pants and sweater with beadwork on the sleeves. They ran the gamut from minimal to beautifully and so tastefully embellished. They seemingly accomplished what has eluded so many others by serving up a lesson on good taste and fashion as it should be without all the bells and whistles and gimmicks.

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I unapologetically say KUDOS to Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia for showing the world that NYFW is not filled only with amateurs and designers whose sole aim is to attract attention for all the wrong reasons...

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Yay you!

PS.. at one point I  was a bit  nervous that they went a little to fat towards Pierpaolo but that worry was quickly assuaged!

Oscar de la Renta pre fall 2020

What seems to fascinate me is that this team has so successfully separated their own collection (Monse) from that of Oscar. This ability speaks to me on many levels. What is so refreshing about their take on Oscar is that they have somehow both kept the original DNA of the brand and infused their point of view and layered onto it.

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While ochre and siena are hardly my favorite colors, their use of intense color mixed with pastels is impressive. Their use of moiré is well… refreshing. The bow detail though not new certainly works here and best yet are a handful of short cocktail dresses that are quietly beautiful. Yes, I get a little feeling for archival styles like the tee shirt and ball skirts and even some of the bow work but as a total collection, it’s pretty damned good.

 

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However, I’m not a fan of this much leather and in fact a few pieces look rather heavy-handed but what’s a collection without some missteps (their Zuhair moment a  bit stretching the point and those puddling pants). Again, with what’s been shown thus far this is a winner of a collection that is certain to resonate with the clients both at retail and wholesale. There is a vibrancy and an essence of youthfulness yet something for every one of the ladies who cotton to Oscar!

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