Showing posts with label Pucci. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pucci. Show all posts

Friday, June 19, 2015

Pucci ... Margiela .. resort 2016



Let’s speak of “what ifs and whys.” What if you saw these collections and were not told who they belonged to? What if reviewers were not given a press release? Why do brands obliterate rebrandings? Why do designers honestly believe the claptrap that falls out of their mouths?


Let’s follow up with a few more questions here: does anyone honestly believe that even the most skilled and astute of fashion writers could say that “this Pucci” has anything to do with the Dundas or Emilio Pucci of the past? Why is anyone excited about Margiela? Has JG lost his mojo? Does anyone even consider that fashion is actually a business of selling clothes to those who can afford them? The question that begs to be asked is simply “will anyone really buy these clothes?”



With all those questions asked, Pucci is up first here and if this is a reimagining  of the brand then let’s say it has moved right on to nightmare or possibly just a “me too!” To speak of the “genetics” of Emilio Pucci in the same breath and to offer a collection such as this is beyond absurd. My eyes and my powers of  intelligence tell me these are unappealing and possibly just plain ugly generic clothes that have the Emilio Pucci label attached. Someone would need to explain to me why you ( a company) spends years building up the brand which possessed this new sort of Euro trashy rock star sensibility (which is meant to be a compliment) and trade it in for a Gucci 2.0.  If the reason is that the clothes were too sexy and too over the top and they didn’t sell when Dundas held the reins … well, wait and see what happens now when these clothes collect dust on the racks!



As for his capsule collection created by “le pauvre” Galliano... well... what’s to say? What immediately comes to mind is “some things are better left unsaid!”... Or in this case shown! Having never been a fan of Margiela, I would never presume to think I know too much about the history and “genetics” of the brand but I do know when I see silly blah blah blah inspired clothes! Yeah, so there was a barely discernibly long haired boy wearing women’s clothes... so much for gender bending or cross dressing! My conundrum here is simply this... Has John Galliano gotten lost in the myth of the mysterious Margiela and given up his own identity? Why is there no reimagining here and is this just an extension of what was?  Where is Le grand Galliano? You know the one I mean... the one with vision, skills and design prowess? Did Renzo just hire him for brand hype? And if so what a waste! It looks to me as if the talent has been caged and restrained to the point of being who really cares who designed this stuff?

My condolences to Pucci and my wish would be that Galliano unleashes himself in the future!

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Emilio Pucci ... Resort 2015



Listen up!! Calling all designers who have taken up the helm of eponymous design houses/brands and have no idea about their heritage or what to do with it! Let this be an object lesson in how to mine an archive! In particular, Wang, Raf, Ricky Ticky, Fausto, Marios, Hedi and Frida… to name a few!


With that being said, Peter Dundas has managed to successfully extrapolate what was and offer what it might have been if the eponymous designer was still around today and that my friends is something that is severely lacking today. Please understand that this is not some diluted rehashed vision of the past glories of Emilio Pucci but a 21st century collection that is steeped in the tradition and DNA of the brand.



KUDOS to you Peter Dundas!!


Once again, there is no set of directions or explanations needed to see what has been presented … unless of course you have no fashion history or knowledge or possess a résumé of 2 years in length which make you perfect to write vapid reviews that regurgitate press releases instead of real reportage. 


Mr. Dundas deftly combines the print heritage of the house as well as its swinging roots in the 60’s and sort of mixes that up with a dash of Cardin and Carnaby Street  and yields a wonderful resort collection that speaks to the Emilio Pucci client of today while creating a wonderful reminder of what once was.
It’s prints and minis and double faces, it is soft and hard, structured and easy and so you take your pick of what you like. The palette is simply pastels with navy and black and of course white. There is very little to pick apart here and much to praise when this collection is held up for comparison in the sea of sameness. Dundas has successfully remained faithful to his vision for the brand as well as having the appropriate respect for the genesis of the brand when it was helmed by Emilio Pucci.


Maybe Peter Dundas can serve as a PhD in fashion and offer a course in “managing and mining” the archives of an eponymous fashion house!

Friday, June 14, 2013

Emilio Pucci by Peter Dundas resort 2014




Dear Peter,

Just had to tell you how divine I think the new collection is!! Loving that you decided to go back to the PUCCI  roots and rediscover the prints that made the designer such a power house.  I was so happy to see all the color and the vibrancy of the prints; Emilio would be proud.

Just fab that one can see Capri as well as St Tropez in the styling of the pieces and the shapes as well as you signature sex kitten looks.  There’s something so louche about this grouping. I can see Talitha Getty lounging around in some of this and having a hit or two on the hookah.


So, Peter, it was such a wise move and so prescient  to return to the true DNA of the brand for resort as now the clothes stand on their own as individual and not just a few more designer outfits to add to the pile of generic clothes that flood the stores and runways season after season.


You really might have rethought the shoes but it is minor when the clothes are so eye appealing and strong in their presence.  I really don’t want you to get a swelled head from all these compliments but there were a few clunkers in there that you might have lived without.  Peter, you know the ones that could have been designed by anyone...those!


Gotta run here so...hope to see your blonde self soon in NYC ….a coffee outdoors would be divine …kiss kiss. Ciao Ciao
Me