Maison Margiela spring 2020

This is a rarity if not a first … this collection spoke to me ... I can’t really say why, I really can’t try to critique it, I’m not sure I even understand it  but it called to me  and summoned me back. The only thing I can think of is that the collection actually looks designed.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

I sense the WWII vibe from the way that nurses dressed during the war and of course I get the tongue in cheek “nunsense” and well maybe a little sort of Night Porter but after that my only defense of posting it is that I like it! The ones piece that reminded of what Gucci did showed me how astray Gucci had gone how potent it might have been if the so called designer designed.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

So basically, you’re all on your own here 

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

Maison Margiela Fall 2018

Rarely if ever have I dared to write about this collection but there is something about Maison Margiela that struck a nerve this season. Beneath the shock and awe, the clear plastic and the almost overly absurd styling were some incredible coats and jackets, even a dress or 2 and a few pieces of knitwear. There was one piece of “styling” or accessory though that was unbelievably amazing and that was the “boned corset backpack” … you figure it out.

click image to enlarge

 

Most of course will never recall the names of Anne Marie Tatterachi or John Ashpool but those brilliant prescient designers of the time came to mind. I was especially intrigued by what I will call the “sound wave” coats and jackets as well as the trenches; one particularly amazing degradé milles feuilles lace chemise that may have looked somewhat clownish at first glance and then upon closer examination is rather exquisite. There were also some color blocked blazers and coats that captured my attention as it was not color blocking as normally envision it. 

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

 

Maybe I’m fashion feeble or phobic or past the shock value segment or the overly ridiculous styling purposely used to distract from the clothes and only inspire incredulity. For some reason I saw past it all this season. Keep in mind I am not much on backstory or inspiration so I tend to look at clothes literally at face value.

click image to enlarge

 

Need I say that the backless cost, the finale, was sheer and utterly brilliance!

Maison Margiela PFW fall 2016

And so today begins the seasonal fawning ala Parisienne with the first of the so called block buster shows…  Maison Margiela. Many in fashion suffer from this nostalgic idea that Galliano is a victim and he has suffered beyond what he should have but alas he now transmits his pain by passing it on to us in the form of Maison Margiela. Yeah yeah I know I’m gonna take some flak over it but it’s about time to say he has either lost it or needs to move on cause this aint the solution.

 

click image to enlarge

Take away all the tricky styling and piling on everything imaginable and what do you have there? To me it sure reminds me of Vivienne Westwood or some drug induced frenzy of a nightmare. The absolute wizardry and magic that he had achieved at Dior has left the building and to constantly try to say it hasn’t is really just plain heresy to both designer and Dior. Can you honestly say that anyone needs John Galliano for another military coat or a blazer? Do you believe that Dior and Galliano were a once in a lifetime moment that will never be repeated? Or is Maison Margiela just a reflection of the chaotic times in fashion and the world where not only is there no trend is the trend but that no trend also means just plain fugly being passed off as the next wave.

click image to enlarge

Instead of addressing all the peripheral crap like venue and front rows and bullshit inspirations, why doesn’t anyone talk about where you will wear these clothes and that the clothes are extravagantly expensive and for the most part is nothing more than a spectator sport? Yes, the world has changed and none of us dress as we used to except for most of the millennials who know no better and think they actually know about fashion when in fact their fashion background is H&M and what happened 30 minutes ago…. But I digress…

click image to enlarge

Back to Margiela which when broken down is a pile of who cares and as said before just a lot of stuff piled on to the point of what she couldn’t wear she carried. No matter the “inspirations” and press release crap, who is wearing off the shoulder organza ruffles emanating from a coat... yeah really! Who? Hasn’t the time come to speak up and say this has absolutely nothing to do with reality, nothing to do with anyone’s lifestyle and  even less to do with that little thing called good taste.

click image to enlarge

Hasn’t the time come for those who have a voice to actually speak the truth… and not spin fairy tales about the emperor’s new clothes? Is it any wonder that print has died , when these days even the so called 5 pages editorials that inhabit what were once fashion magazines, all feature the same pieces all with the “price upon request” tag line. Is it any wonder that the retail business is in the doldrums when there is nothing to sell to those who still have any taste and any degree of sanity?

Case in point... Maison Margiela

PS .. what’s with the aprons and the Hedi jewel encrusted bomber??

Maison Margiela haute couture Spring 2016

Let me preface this by saying, I write this at the  risk of being drawn and quartered as well as being publicly scorned by the fawners of fashion but who cares….

clcik image to enlarge

Can someone please explain to me the so called collection of John Galliano (Maison Margiela); “le pauvre Galliano” who in my eyes is demonstrating that his stint at Dior was akin to Custer’s last stand. To say that these “things” are fashion is incomprehensible to me. Yes, they are technical feats of construction but so is a bridge. 

clcik image to enlarge

To my eye and maybe I am just being old fashioned in my thinking that clothes are meant to be worn no matter the price but this looks like the clothes actually exploded on the models. If there is a positive to any of it, there were some beautifully tailored jackets and one off white trench coat but … really? To those who will fawn and coo.. get a grip as you no more understand these clothes than you do about utilizing quantum physics!

PS: with all the chatter about relevance.. explain tom e where hat enters the pictures here.... what exactly is this relevant to ??

Maison Margiela Spring 2015 PFW

Blah … blah… blah, blah, blah ... insert oohing... aaahing ... fawning ... lauding…. Orgasmic rants … well that is if you are of the blindly faithful and/or the terminally trendoid … or maybe of the baaaaaaaaah club (the sheep)

click on image to enlarge

What I saw was a flicker of Galliano in the razor sharp tailoring, the antics of the hair /make-up and of course the gender bending. Aside from the design theatrics of fraying and wrapped plastic and torn and flaps, there was this very heavy handed folded seamed bust line that surely looked less than fabulous or worthy of Galliano’s hand. The styling was almost to the point of just plain ridiculous and let’s talk about what looked like bonded fabric! You remember bonded ... it was fabric heat set, backed to a foam like material to provide roundness without all the seaming architecture.

click on image to enlarge

click on image to enlarge

Having never been a fan or Margiela enthusiast, maybe its appeal is lost on me. BUT, my eyes tell me that the Galliano input was most evident in the tailoring and in a few styles that reminded us of how Galliano sees/saw fashion. i.e. the Japanese/Ferre type tie closures on jackets and dresses. So … This is all about pieces and not so much about a total look by any stretch of the imagination. The proportion of so much is visually disturbing to me.

click on image to enlarge

click on image to enlarge

What struck me odd was the embellishments which one can suppose were to be humorous but they just seem to be in stark contrast to this designer’s M.O. ALAS, there was this amazing studded and frayed sleeveless tennis sweater which was pretty amazing and while on the subject of pieces there was there was that skirt and coat with the “diamante” earrings hanging of them. If one is looking for conversation pieces, then you have come to the right place.

click on image to enlarge