Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Maison Margiela Spring 2015 PFW



Blah … blah… blah, blah, blah ... insert oohing... aaahing ... fawning ... lauding…. Orgasmic rants … well that is if you are of the blindly faithful and/or the terminally trendoid … or maybe of the baaaaaaaaah club (the sheep)
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What I saw was a flicker of Galliano in the razor sharp tailoring, the antics of the hair /make-up and of course the gender bending. Aside from the design theatrics of fraying and wrapped plastic and torn and flaps, there was this very heavy handed folded seamed bust line that surely looked less than fabulous or worthy of Galliano’s hand. The styling was almost to the point of just plain ridiculous and let’s talk about what looked like bonded fabric! You remember bonded ... it was fabric heat set, backed to a foam like material to provide roundness without all the seaming architecture.
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click on image to enlarge



Having never been a fan or Margiela enthusiast, maybe its appeal is lost on me. BUT, my eyes tell me that the Galliano input was most evident in the tailoring and in a few styles that reminded us of how Galliano sees/saw fashion. i.e. the Japanese/Ferre type tie closures on jackets and dresses. So … This is all about pieces and not so much about a total look by any stretch of the imagination. The proportion of so much is visually disturbing to me.
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click on image to enlarge



What struck me odd was the embellishments which one can suppose were to be humorous but they just seem to be in stark contrast to this designer’s M.O. ALAS, there was this amazing studded and frayed sleeveless tennis sweater which was pretty amazing and while on the subject of pieces there was there was that skirt and coat with the “diamante” earrings hanging of them. If one is looking for conversation pieces, then you have come to the right place.
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