Oscar de la Renta Resort 2017

So here’s the deal with Oscar for Resort 2017.. There are some positively exquisite pieces, some positively dowdy and matronly pieces, there are some ho hum who cares pieces and yet the collection does make sense as a whole. The sweater and skirt ensembles work for the most part and have become part of the ODLR DNA.

 

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That is wildly detrimental to all of it is silly trendoid Chloé/ Celine styling, a model who doesn’t stand straight up and needs to be slapped across  the shoulder, the absurd pigeon toed stance, that pre Raphaelite hair and some sad shoe choices. On the bright side, there was a pair of black patent pumps with a leopard heel what was fabulous.

 

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Color yes, fabrications yes although some styles were a tad heavy handed and seemingly on their own the overall collection works and in my opinion has salability on its side. I just wish Copping would play the hand dealt to him and not cross the line to trendoid and referenced. Maybe it is my impression that the polish is missing and that disturbs me as Oscar was always just perfection when it came to grooming and accessories.  There would never be leather shoes or belts with gowns unless metallic and surely never a slouched model with turned in toe stance. Does no one speak or see the harm it does when these things slip by thru the cracks or are just overlooked. Perhaps one of my biggest gripes is the length issue which fluctuates wildly, the below the knee looks are so aging while the hover at the knee looks are beautiful.

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Oscar de la Renta Prefall 2016

Having seen the images from the presentation and now the look book, it is apparent to me that this is how one assembles a collection. Amazingly simple as it seems there are so few who have any concept of how to do this meaning there are day clothes, cocktail clothes and evening clothes and they all look like they come from the same designer. Some will say it is boring,  some will say it is old fashioned but none can say it doesn’t sell and that my friends is what the business of fashion is all about. Contrary to what too may think,  it is not hype that translates to sales but it is great design, staying true to your DNA, if you know what that is, and well, actually knowing who your client is and offering them what they didn’t even know they had to have... to paraphrase the late great Diana Vreeland.

Peter Copping is doing a masterful job by deliberately and purposefully massaging the Oscar De La Renta DNA while infusing it with his imprimatur and for that alone he deserves 5 stars. The collection is beautifully rendered and in keeping with the brand’s image and history. With very few missteps this is a beautiful collection that exhibits what pre-fall was and should be all about and that is salable clothes and not to set the world on fire.

Okay, so if I had any complaints … It would be that were several pieces which looked to be a bit short waisted and a few of that below the knee length which is not a good look and that’s it... well not quite ... the look book photos might have been styled a bit more polished so the model didn’t look so dishabille ... All of them minor and all of these my personal peeves.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2016 NYFW

The first thing that comes to mind is that it isn’t easy being Peter Copping! Everyone seems to waiting to see what he will do next and how he will ever fill the shoes that he was chosen to wear. Without question, it is my opinion that he is still treading lightly and rightfully so as Oscar built a mega empire based on his taste and intuition. Copping can be described as cautious but adventurous and that’s all good!

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With that being said Mr. Copping presented a beautiful collection that was very Oscar laced with (pun intended) with many Copping flourishes... again... pun intended! Colorful, feminine, omni-age appeal, red, sexy when it could be, fashionable, a healthy dose of Latin spice, ruffles and yes! … newness as well. There is a great lightness of hand here which so many cannot achieve. What was disturbing to my eye was the skirt lengths as they just don’t seem to flatter anyone and then paired with lace up espadrilles or flats... well not so much! It is safe to say there was something for everyone here and yet this wasn’t a let’s see what sticks to the wall scenario in terms of silhouettes, colors or otherwise. This was a well-conceived, cohesive and calculated presentation.

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All in all, this collection can be termed evolutionary without destroying and certainly not obliterating the brand’s DNA and for that alone peter Copping deserves an A+... as well as the Bolen’s for making sure that Oscars name is not besmirched by some new whim or concept emanating from the current designer.

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In the end, I’s say this is a B+ outing all things being considered which only means that hopefully things will evolve to even better

Oscar de la Renta resort 2016 by Peter Copping

Ladylike… √ … Suits … √ … Urbane … √ … Gowns … √

Ode to Oscar … √ … Prints … √ …Youthful … √ … Cocktail dresses … √

Colorful …√ … Embroideries … √ … Modern …√ … Tasteful … √

Feminine … √ … Ruffles … √ … DNA … √ … Chic … √

One would think that with all these areas covered in one way or another that the collection would have been a knock out. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would say 8 and maybe even 7.5. There were several factors that were truly out of character for the brand, the most prominent and reoccurring is that that the collection lacked the polish, finish and superb presentation that we have become so accustomed to over the years. You know … a few pulling and puckering seams and some hems too long and assorted fit issues.

Peter Copping is more than respectful of the brand’s DNA as well as its vocabulary but it was disappointing that the some of the pieces appeared to be ill fitting and in some cases possibly even not living up the standard of manufacture that has become a trademark of the house. Some pieces seemed not to fit; some pieces seemed to lack the impeccable finish and sharpness that has always been present every season. Could it be that it was a bit too “comme il faut?”

The clothes themselves were more than passable  and in some instances amazingly outstanding in their beauty and conception but then on the flip side there were some that looked frumpy and not quite in keeping with the M O of the brand. Amazing were the Balenciaga inspired gown and cocktail dresses with the fitted front and trapeze back, the hi-lo hems and 2 short dresses of teal and marigold with lace appliqués.  Then there was a red ruffled suit and a print sun dress that appeared to have been sort of just of thrown on and photographed. There was an element of slick raffiné that seemed to be absent in the overall presentation... it was going 9/10 of a mile and not the full distance.

It was brought to my attention that the collection had a very “Anna” influence which is not entirely a bad thing as no matter what one’s feelings may be about her she has in her own way redefined what a working wardrobe can look like. In particular those little “shruggy” like cardigans and abbreviated suit jackets as well as the prints themselves that “she” seems to be so fond of!

The take away here is that there is plenty to satisfy the cult of Oscar and that there were no huge boners that can be pointed to and the so called commercial aspect of the collection has not been lost while still retaining the essence of the brand. Mr. Copping is no doubt treading lightly and not ruffling any feathers which is great and I think in due time, the collection will bounce back to where it once was when Oscar was still designing and that will be the ultimate reward for Copping. The time has yet to come and may never come that Copping exerts full creative control………. And by the way ... sounds good to me!