Alexander McQueen resort 2017

THE "COVETABLE" COLLECTION!

 

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 If there was ever any question if fashion was an art form... well this should clinch your reply as YES IT IS!

 

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To my eye this is a celebration of design, craft, art, skill and technology but as far as selling clothes, I am not convinced. There is no doubt that this would be called a “collector’s edition” for only those who afford what has been offered. Most of what has been shown is close to museum worthy and some of it... well not so much.

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What comes to mind are the words of the late Mr. McQueen who said ...  Clothes and jewellery should be startling, individual. When you see a woman in my clothes, you want to know more about them. To me, that is what distinguishes good designers from bad designers and words to this effect... in order to break the rules, you must learn the rules... never has it been more evident than in the hands of his most adept and creatively blessed heir to the throne.

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Please note that the McQueen girl is perfectly groomed and made up and actually beautiful!!

Elizabeth Kennedy resort 2017

Years ago, we might have referred to this collection as “rich lady clothes.”  The fact is that these are clothes for ladies who understand and appreciate the art and craft and fashion. The dresses are crafted of the finest fabrics with hand embellishments and all made in New York City. This type of fashion does not come cheaply nor is it a simple case of trend or of the moment. These are as they say “investment clothes.”

 

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There is no mistaking the influences of Balenciaga or YSL, but then again, given the current state of fashion, that’s an asset as it is actually recognizably the truth with no blah blah blah. To my eye, these are what real live women who probably own Haute Couture will buy and wear without leaving the country for the purchase. In other words, this is neither a mass taste nor a mass appeal. These are the clothes for the truly educated, cognoscenti of fashion who “get it” … no dabblers, no fawners, no bargain hunters.

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PS ... I might have wished for some expansion on the silhouette of the floral print cocktail dress

Carolina Herrera Resort 2017

Having this on again off again love affair with Herrera has brought me here today to proclaim that this collection is just quintessential chic… yes, chic has returned. Don’t think that it really ever really left the house but this season an urbane and soigne presence pervades a pitch perfect collection.

 

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Some will say it is old and who cares what those say ... well imagine... no off the shoulder puffers and no bedraggled model and no shapeless sacks masquerading as fashion. Yes quel domage, but instead what was shown is a timelessly masterful exercise in fashion... yes fashion. The collection speaks to the brand and to its eponymous designer. There is no trickery here, no “inspirational designing” that requires a handbook, none of what the so called media will stand up and applaud for. Instead there are timeless clothes that are perfectly executed for ageless women who want to look superbly turned out when stepping out.

 

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The silhouettes are both a mix of old and new but present is a freshness and a crispness if you will. These are clothes that will not age with time or on the rack! There was a moment when the brand might have stepped into Rosie Assoulin territory but even those pieces are far superior than their source. Of particular interest were the exquisitely rendered and placed embroideries as well as some pretty amazing fur pieces. To me the black and white pieces were sublime as well as … well... lots of others.

 

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Yes Virginia, there is a Christmas and this year it comes in the form of resort 2017 from Carolina Herrera. It is a long way from “our lady of the sleeves!

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Valentino resort 2017

OMG!!  OMG!!!  OMG!!!

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Let the paid for fawning begin! Let the blind fawning begin! Let the delusion begin!!

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Make no mistake about this, these 2 designers have stepped over the line and now they have completely obliterated any chic, class, soigne from a brand that built its reputation on those qualities!

 

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The clothes are ludicrously expensive and prove that workmanship only goes so far, yes, incredible but you can bead, embroider and embellish a burlap bag and yet it is still a burlap bag save for now it costs 1000s of euros!

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Matronly monastic mixed with clunky looking virginal do not a collection make! Oh and add in the heavy clumsy looking pump/sandals and the heavy handed styling and presto you have a who cares and who wants to look like this at that price collection.

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Complimenti .. you have guccified and hedi’d a collection that stood for so much more. Congratulations and now you too are losers who can stand in line with Hedi, the Rooskies  and Alessandro!

 

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PS.. that blue blouse with the cowl back is Luciano Soprani from the mid 80s..