Showing posts with label Phillp Treacy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Phillp Treacy. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 29, 2015

the 10 Best Reads for 2015



As a respected, seasoned and recognized reviewer of books  ( New York Journal of Books) dealing with international fashion and style, it seemed timely to offer my choices for the best reads of 2015 when it comes to the subject of fashion in its broadest sense.




The selections below have all been released and are quite worthy of reading as well as owning. The subjects deal with fashion and style as seen via some of the great fashion icons of the century as well as those who contributed to this ever growing category.




Fashion has evolved and will continue to evolve in a way that has become much more inclusive as it is no longer only the territory for designers and of apparel. Fashion in its current configuration includes fine jewelry, Time pieces, collectors and aficionados of couture as well those involved in the world of media.




So without any further explanation, here’s hoping for  great new year filled with fashion and style. By the way, there are no bad choices here.




1-‘Vacheron Constantin: The Artists of Time Box Edition’ by Franco Cologni

… Saying or thinking that Vacheron Constantin makes watches is like saying Michelangelo was a ceiling painter. Vacheron Constaintin is a manufacturer and purveyor of some of the world’s most coveted horological time pieces as well an innovator within this rarefied sphere of mechanics and design…




2-‘If These Jewels Could Talk: The Legends Behind Celebrity Gems’ by Beth Bernstein

… One of the great successes and joys of this season is If These Jewels Could Talk. Bernstein is a gifted storyteller who offers history, gossip, and biographical information on the jewelry itself, its various owners, and possibly even the provenance of a particularly large stone …



3-‘Dior by Dior Deluxe Edition: The Autobiography of Christian Dior’ by Christian Dior

… This is the most intimate story of a world class designer as well as a man who loved his gardens and every single piece of haute couture that he ever created. He considered his creations to be his children, and once they were shown, they were the children who had left home to start another life…



4-‘Philip Treacy’  by Philip Treacy

… There are no words to adequately describe this book or my reaction to this book but I am willing to try. Philip Treacy is a rarity among designers as he is an original. His creations are far beyond the fantastical and of a quality that is as rare as a rooster with socks on! BUT, I digress, this is coffee table book but chock a block with such arresting images and of such quality that the reader is rendered awestruck and slack jawed and that is just the beginning…



5-‘Diana Vreeland: The Modern Woman: The Bazaar Years, 1936–1962’ by Alexander Vreeland

… Apparently there is an inexhaustible supply of material when it comes to the subject of Diana Vreeland. There is only one other name that comes to mind who can rival the amount of  ink devoted to a fashion personality and that is Christian Dior. Having read countless books dealing with the woman referred to as the “empress of fashion,” it becomes startlingly clear that she was endlessly captivating, inspiring, and prescient in so many ways…



6-‘Art and Fashion: Collaborations and Connections Between Icons’ by E.P. Cutler & Julien Tomasello

… Next up is the content, which can only be defined as educational, entertaining, visually arresting, and informative. Cutler and Tomasello raise the question of whether or not fashion is an art form or if art be fashion. Remember that these types of collaborations with artists and those in fashion go back to the turn of the 20th century so it would be a mistake to toss off a casual answer. The authors have made their case on all fronts… 



7-‘Ingenue to Icon: 70 Years of Fashion from the Collection of Marjorie Merriweather Post’ by Howard Vincent Kurtz

… C. W. Post told his daughter in so many words, “Don’t let the money rule you . . . don’t let it possess you.” C. W. was the Post of Post cereals, General Mills, and C. W. Post College just to name a few of his notable accomplishments. His daughter was none other than Marjorie Merriweather Post who was nothing if not an obedient daughter of privilege who lived her life with maximum éclat and grace among surroundings befitting American royalty. Ingenue to Icon pays tribute to one of America’s most stylish and famous personalities…



8- ‘Electric Fashion’ by Frederic Aranda & Christine Suppes

… Electric Fashion stands alone in the genre of fashion monographs as this is a book that can be appraised and applauded on multiple levels. Suppes and Aranda describe this project as a journey, but this is an unbelievably intimate demonstration of one woman’s adoration of fashion with her “partner in crime.” Together, they have created one of the great fashion books to have come along in this millennium to date …



9- ‘Model Woman: Eileen Ford and the Business of Beauty’ by Robert Lacey

… Lacey is to be commended because he has provided much more than just a snapshot of a life well lived by absorbing the reader into the life of Eileen Ford, warts and all. This is not a fluff book that only tells the reader of how great she was but it also offers the reader a chance to realize that not everyone is perfect nor do they always make the correct decisions no matter how great their eventual success…



10- ‘Fashion Lives: Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis’ by Fern Mallis

…Fern Mallis has brilliantly compiled her interviews from the 92 Street Y series and Rizzoli was sage enough to publish them and the combination produces a book that brings a very personal, insightful and very human and sometimes intimate side to a business that is often considered vapid and superficial…



For the full reviews please see my pages at www.nyjournalofbooks.com/reviewer/jeffrey-felner

PS. they are in no particular order of recommednation 

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Philip Treacy.. master of design



Philip Treacy is one of the most prolific, creative and imaginative designers that our present world of fashion has ever produced. While his responses may be brief they are none the less quite potent in their content.

Mr. Treacy will always be remembered for his longtime friendship with Isabella Blow and perhaps it is she who catapulted him into the white hot light of fashion. He has endured far longer than most designers and he is still very much the go to resource for some of the greatest designers of our era. Mr. Treacy stands alone in this arena of fashion and one of the very few who can proudly be referred to as “trendless!”

My oft used phrase of “designers who design” is possibly more applicable here with him than with 95% of the population who inhabit this milieu. He is above all a createur with boundless imagination and infinite capabilities. He has created the millinery needs of some of the world’s greatest luminaries whether they be the English royals or the royals of the music business. 
Marc-Antoine Coulon

While you may not have known his name, you have surely seen his mastery on display in countless magazines and on the heads of the cognoscenti of fashion. Words of praise fall short in properly describing the prodigious output of this man. He is one of the very very few who one might call truly deem as a fashion genius!

My advice is to listen up to what he has to say and to revel in the beauty that belongs to Philip Treacy.

JF--What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?
PT-My Alexander McQueen suits, he gave me.
JF-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships? Loyalty
JF-What is your bliss?
PT-Inventing hats


JF-What is your guilty secret?
PT-I think about new hats all day long
JF-Where is your ideal home?
PT-London, it’s a fantasy.
JF-What do you wear to bed?
PT-Not much
JF-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”
PT-originality
JF-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?
PT-Isabella Blow
JF-What is the best advice you ever received?
PT-Make hats.
JF-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.
PT-Trendless, open, marketing
14-If you were a retailer; would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store?
 PT-yes
or where would you shop?
PT-Harrods
JF-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?
PT-Plants. I love gardening
JF-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?
Marilyn PT-Monroe and Michael Jackson
JF-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?
PT-Legend / Tom Cruise
JF-Whose opinion do you value most and why?
PT-The people I work with, I trust them
JF-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?
PT-It’s all legible
JF-Do you have a dream collaborator?
PT-Marlene Dietrich
JF-What is your crowning achievement thus far in your career?
PT-Surviving as a hat designer in the 21st century


JF-What’s your music library like?
PT-Chaotic
JF-What and where is your favorite meal?
PT-Anything my partner Stefan cooks


Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Meet Philip Treacy.. legend of fashion .. modern master



There are so few designers ... of anything... who reach career highs within their lifetime and remain there. We are not talking about the “pets” or the media darlings who have PR machines and corporate money behind them, I speak of independent super talents who achieved this designation or plateau with their god given talents … my focus is Philip Treacy.  Today it is all about celebrating a creative wunderkind who knows no bounds and who is instantly synonymous with his métier. As far as I can see, this is a man of epic talent and endless imagination who creates for runways, royalty and never ever the run of the mill!! While he may be a bit brief in his replies to my questions he is wildly prolific in his output! What needs to be considered he is one question and one reply…. “What is your bliss?” and the reply is inventing hats!! Please take note of the choice of words here as they are so very telling of the man!! … Inventing!!!! Bravo !



-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?
My Alexander McQueen suits, he gave me.
-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?  
Loyalty
-What is your bliss?
Inventing hats
-What is your guilty secret?
I think about new hats all day long
-Where is your ideal home?
London, it’s a fantasy.
-What do you wear to bed?
Not much
-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”
Originality



-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?
Isabella Blow
-What is the best advice you ever received?
Make hats.
-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.
Trendless, open, marketing
14-If you were a retailer; would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store?
Yes
Or where would you shop?
Harrods
-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?
Plants. I love gardening
-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?
Marilyn Monroe and Michael Jackson
-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?
Legend / Tom Cruise
-Whose opinion do you value most and why?
 The people I work with, I trust them
-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?
It’s all legible
-Do you have a dream collaborator?
Marlene Dietrich
-What is your crowning achievement thus far in your career?
Surviving as a hat designer in the 21st century


-What’s your music library like?
Chaotic
-What and where is your favorite meal?
Anything my partner Stefan cooks