Showing posts with label designer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label designer. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 30, 2019

meet Joshua Katcher .. the game changer


Joshua is a warrior! He is most definitely not a dilettante nor one of those who gives lip service to the buzz words du jour like sustainable, eco-friendly, green-designed, recycled, upcycled and environmentally friendly… you get the idea... He is committed to the entire universe, concept and development. He is also a published author on the subject…. Fashion Animals.
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Joshua is a key player in the fight against the use of animal cruelty in fashion.  I am always amazed at how much he knows, not only about the history of animals in fashion but also in terms of what innovations are being made in the use of new materials that are replacing things like leather, fur and exotic skins.  He is definitely someone I look up to in this struggle to change the industry for the better. Alexi Lubomirski, photographer

Mr. Katcher writes about it, lectures about it, teaches on the subject and has dedicated his career to educating all of us on so many of these topics. Don’t get the wrong idea in that he is this preachy holier than thou soapbox orator as I have personally met him and spent some time with him and despite his dedication, he is certainly not lecturing while he is engaged with you. 
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Personally, I am always awed by those who possess such well-informed dedication and have done more than just talk about it. His apparel collection, though abbreviated was rather wonderful and appealing. My point with him was that all of these noble quests filter down to an educated consumer which at this point in time seems less than plausible given the state of our country BUT education and being informed takes time and future generations will greatly benefit from his research and zeal on the subject.
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As I explained to him, my issue is that until this genre of fashion can be made accessible to the masses, pricewise and appeal, then it might take longer than we might hope. It is a topic that must be addressed and not only addressed but put in motion by more than just one or two educated designers. We need a groundswell of support from the fashion industry and only then can this mindset become a reality.
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 All my opinions aside, here is Joshua speaking on the so very topical subject of sustainability and all that comes with it …  
 Jeffrey Felner: First let’s talk about how you got to where you are today in your life …   a sort of resume!

Joshua Katcher: I grew up in Poughkeepsie, two hours north of New York City. My parents were teachers; my grandparents were all children of immigrants who became glove-makers in Gloversville, NY.  My mother’s mother was a fashion maven – I have images of her dressed up like a vampy movie star. My father’s mother was apparently a math genius but her husband wouldn’t allow her to work. I grew up visiting my paternal grandparents at a federally funded housing project in Brooklyn. New York City was a place I knew I wanted to be one day. I loved comic books and alternative rock music. I would often stay home making art, playing my guitar or reading X-Men. Comic books were important to me as I was moved by the idea of heroes who would fight for truth and justice, who would not compromise their ethics and wanted to make the world a better place.  I was a closeted introvert who was bullied for being effeminate and different, who loved art and counter-culture. All of this has crafted who I am today.
From a professional standpoint, I’ve taken a lot of risks. I’ve kept going when people have told me I should stop and I have defied the safe and easy path. Fresh out of college, I worked for one year in a corporate job that made me feel empty. I’ve been a lifeguard, an EMT who drove an ambulance and an assistant to my parents who photographed weddings on the weekends as a side-gig.  I freelanced as a camera operator at MTV; I edited videos and worked on indie films. Eventually, I started a vegan lifestyle website in 2008 called The Discerning Brute. Soon after I launched my brand, Brave GentleMan, which was the first vegan menswear brand in the world. I began lecturing and teaching at universities like Parsons, NYU and FIT as an expert in animals in the fashion industry. 
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 JF: You are a writer, a teacher and an advocate ... please explain each of those to us and why?
JK: I began writing about fashion in 2008 with The Discerning Brute. At the time, sustainable and ethical fashion concepts were (and to a large extent, still are) perceived as feminine concerns, and therefore considered trivial, silly and ultimately about surface and vanity. So, I began writing to appeal to a more masculine audience. In writing about fashion I realized that the intersection of fashion and animals hadn’t been researched or taken seriously.  There is a real lack of meaningful data and legislation concerning animals in fashion. What happens to animals in the fashion industry is unimaginable, and the scale and history is staggering. We’re talking about billions of individuals confined, trapped, processed and killed every year and a little-known history of extinctions, extermination campaigns and socio-political scandals. And that reality is intentionally hidden behind sleek marketing and PR designed to make us think only about the aesthetics of the finished fashion objects. Beauty is seen as good, therefore beautiful objects, even if they were made in a horribly ugly way, are perceived as good.  I spent about 5 years, while an adjunct professor at Parsons the New School, researching and writing my first book, Fashion Animals, which grapples with how and why animals have been exploited in fashion, and the systems and ideologies that allow otherwise kind and good people to continue participating in and funding cruelty and violence that is out of sight. 
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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?
JK: I’d invite three amazing youth leaders, with 2 incredible wise elders:
Greta Thunberg - 16 year old Swedish teenage environmental activist. Genesis Butler - 12 year old animal rights activist.
Omari McQueen - 12 year old Omari McQueen is the youngest award winning vegan chef in the UK. Dr. Jane Goodall - English primatologist and anthropologist.
Dr. Margaret Robinson - Indigenous Mi’kmaw, professor of Indigenous Studies at Dalhousie University in Halifax
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 JF: Let’s talk about vegan, vegetarian, sustainability and the environment...   What brought you to become so involved with any or all of them and why?
JK: The first time I ever really considered where my food was coming from was in high-school when my class purchased an acre of rainforest to protect. We later found out that it had likely been illegally burned and cleared for cattle-grazing. I remember being just baffled at the idea of invaluable rainforests being destroyed to make cheap burgers. It’s a difficult question to answer because so many things brought me to care about veganism and sustainability and they’re connected. A broader idea of a more compassionate world just makes sense to me and worth fighting for by any means possible.  Another thing that compels me is having been bullied myself and being open to considering the suffering of others, whether that’s a factory worker, a cotton harvester, or a fox in a cage. Animals want to live just like you and me. We continue to underestimate their capacities to have complex inner and social lives and we underestimate their ability to suffer. I see sustainable fashion as a means by which to create and express a visual identity that aligns the beauty of a fashion with the beauty of how it was made.  Fashion is a wonderful and perfect place for transformation. 
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 JF: Lastly let’s speak of your clothing and accessory collections ... How would you like to see them evolve and if you could choose any collaboration at all, who would you choose and why?
JK: I want to make a large-scale change in the fashion industry. That requires scaling up. I am not content just having Brave GentleMan staying a small brand. I envision Brave GentleMan expanding sustainable, vegan menswear into major retailers with more product categories like basics, underwear, grooming and athletic wear. I also want to work with the most cutting edge innovations – from mycelium and lab-grown leather to bio-printed fur and algal biopolymers. I think people need to see an articulation of future-fashion that is exciting, hopeful, inspiring, aspirational and still grounded in classic aesthetics. If I could do collaboration right now, it would probably be with a team of scientists and engineers to make lab-grown keratin fiber that would be biologically identical to vicuña and chiru. If I were to do more practical design collaboration right now, I’d like to work with Tom Ford on a sustainable and vegan capsule collection.
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Monday, July 8, 2019

meet Lutz Huelle ..a designer for the 21st century



Anyone who “follows” my fashion reviews realizes that I’m pretty much a classicist in many ways or others might say old fashioned and stuck in my ways. The most important thing to know is that I do look at almost every designer that I can whether my cup of tea or not. 
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I have been watching Lutz for quite some time and I can honestly say that at the start I wasn’t quite sure what to say or what to think of it and then it happened a couple of seasons ago and I was struck with a collection that I saw as beautiful and a departure from what he had been doing and yet it was an evolution as well.
 
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To compound my epiphany, Lutz was suddenly named to be the creative director at Delpozo which is a pet  brand for me as I don’t view it with the same eyes as I would … let’s  say  Dior, who has become a favored whipping post for me. So with  great anticipation, I waited to see what Lutz was going to bring to the table at his  new  position  and he confirmed to me that I was quite correct in constantly watching  what  he was doing in his own  collections. 
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With all that in mind, I was not only  thrilled that he consented to do this interview but also found out that he is endearing in many ways and most importantly he is a man of grace and polish. So this interview became a labor  of love for me and I hope that EVERYONE will take notice of a genuinely innovative designer who designs … he is not a trendoid , not a media  hungry whore but a designer of clothes that appeal to what might be best referred to as a cult  following. I am now proudly a member of that cult.

Here in his own words is Lutz Huelle who will speak of his past present and future………

Jeffrey Felner: Let’s talk about your career path... What was your path to your present situation?
Lutz Huelle: I studied Fashion at St Martins in London, and then went on to work at Martin Margiela in Paris. After 3 years I left without any clear idea about what I was going to do. I went back to St Martins to teach for a while, took on a freelance job in Italy, and then decided to just do a collection on my own and see what would happen. I financed the first Collection with the money I was earning in Italy, and we organized a show in Paris... The reactions were really positive- we sold to about 15 great stores, so I then took the collection in a suitcase around Italy, trying to find a producer. All this was Fall/Winter 2000.
We stayed under the radar for quite a while, but acquired a small but extremely loyal base of clients, which enabled us to continue working, even when around 2008 things went a bit haywire...
Then, around 2012 we suddenly had a breakthrough. I’d always been working with the idea of elevating aspects of streetwear into High Fashion or Luxury- the sense that people would want to wear clothes that corresponded to their way of life today, and this suddenly became the new norm, which in turn made people react to my work in new and unexpected ways.
I’d always felt that a lot of what we were seeing on catwalks did not correspond to how people were dressing, at least not the people around me, and I had always wanted to dress people in everyday situations instead of solely on a catwalk.
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JF: Can you tell us about what you expect to do with Delpozo as well with your own collection? Do you have a plan or mindset for both or either?
LH: I think one of the reasons why the people at Delpozo contacted me was that they saw similarities between my work and what their future plans for Delpozo. They have an incredible image that is more anchored in couture than pret-a-porter, which is great for occasion dressing and red carpet but not so much for real life or the needs of women today.
My idea is to design Delpozo for today’s needs without sacrificing the beauty and sense of occasion. Real Clothes, imbued with the magic of Delpozo ... that’s the plan!
For my own collection there really has never been a plan- it’s just a continuous flow where one collection follows the other. I rarely start at zero when working on a new collection, I just look at the things that I like most or that have worked well and see how they could evolve or continue. 
In general I can see myself going towards something less and less inspired by streetwear- it’s already been like this for a few seasons, and the idea of a certain kind of ‘ladylike’ dressing seems kind of inspiring to me... for the first time ever to be honest. We’ll see  :-)  
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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner, who would they be and why?
LH: The whole cast of Pedro Almodovar’s ‘High Heels’ including Miguel Bose in drag! I’m a huge fan of Almodovar and love all of his movies, but have a soft spot for both High Heels and Law of Desire. I loved the latest one too!
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JF: Can you sort of give us a brief idea of how you go about designing a collection … is it fabric first or sketch first or inspiration first? Or does it change each season?
LH: It really depends, it could be any ... what I do always is look at the preceding collection and see what I still like and what I feel is still interesting. Sometimes an idea has come really late and has not been properly developed, or something hasn’t worked the way I thought it would, and it’d nice to be able to go back and do things maybe better or differently.
Also something maybe wasn’t right in the fabric so was cancelled ... it’s really an ongoing flow of work. I also carry a book with me where I note anything that comes into my mind, so at the start of each new season I will go through this and see what feels right for the next season.
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JF: Do you have any style/fashion icons or mentors that would you would consider to be inspirational and why have you chosen them?
The first big inspiration was Comme des Garçons … it was such a shock seeing these garments for the first time! Not only because they were extreme in their technicality and finishing, but also because they were for a woman that I felt had not existed in fashion before. It also upended any notions of what fashion and femininity could be... suddenly it seemed that anything was possible.
Then of course Martin Margiela, who I felt a huge affinity with because he seemed to dress women I knew and understood, not only a dream but also a sense of reality, extreme and completely easy at the same time.
Balenciaga for the dream and perfection! Saint Laurent for the Smoking...and Katharine Hamnett for her World Peace Now T-shirt... actually there are so many! 

Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Karl Lagerfeld .. in memoriam


he end of an era has come ..RIP Monsieur Lagerfeld ... you gave fashion more than anyone.. you will be sorely missed on so many levels...... image by Robin Broadbent ..... in the words of Diana Vreeland" you gave them what they never knew they wanted".... https://wwd.com/…/…/karl-lagerfeld-dies-in-paris-1203034873/


 Lagerfeld should further be remembered for the unfiltered thoughts and words that fell from his lips as well as his fashion contributions ... He was honest to the core and sometimes even inflammatory but he was always wildly  intelligent,  comedic  and somewhat self-deprecating and some might say  a tad evil .. . Have a read!


**Don't dress to kill, dress to survive.


**I’m a kind of fashion nymphomaniac who never gets an orgasm.
 
**Work is making a living out of being bored.


**Trendy is the last stage before tacky.”
 
*Work is making a living out of being bored.

**I hate intellectual conversation with intellectuals because I only care about my opinion
 
**Life is not a beauty contest, some [ugly people] are great. What I hate is nasty, ugly people... the worst is ugly, short men."The brain is a muscle, and I'm a kind of body-builder.
 
**I am like a caricature of myself, and I like that. It is like a mask. And for me the Carnival of Venice lasts all year long."*


**Yes, some people say to me you're too skinny, but never a skinny person says that to me, only people who could lose a few pounds say that.
**No, I'm not a French designer either. I'm from nowhere. I'm a European, old European is all I am.
 
**I have no human feelings."


**I'm like a rock singer with one-night stands on the road.
 

**I’m very much down to earth, just not this earth.”


**I had an interview once with some German journalist—some horrible, ugly woman. It was in the early days after the communists—maybe a week after—and she wore a yellow sweater that was kind of see-through. She had huge tits and a huge black bra, and she said to me, ‘It’s impolite; remove your glasses.’ I said, ‘Do I ask you to remove your bra?”


**Forgiveness isn’t something I’m preoccupied with — turning the other cheek isn’t my trip.”


**Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants."


**What I do Coco would have hated. The label has an image and it's up to me to update it. I do what she never did. I had to find my mark. I had to go from what Chanel was to what it should be, could be, what it had been to something else


**Why should I stop working? If I do, I'll die and it'll all be finished. I'm lucky to work in the most perfect of conditions. I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored."