vin·tagenoun \ˈvin-tij\
a period in which something was made or was begun
a period of origin or manufacture <a piano of 1845 vintage>
length of existence : age
This is how Meriam Webster defines the word vintage.
For those of us who consider ourselves “fashionphiles,” vintage clothing was at one time the step child of fashion. It was regarded as slightly less than and looked at slightly askance. The facts are that vintage clothing is and has been the laboratory from which modern fashion has evolved.
Vintage clothing offers a look back, as well as a look into the future of fashion. These clothes are no longer offered in the musty confines of some out of the way second hand or thrift store but in establishments that rival or have replaced the once fabled multi-brand specialty store retailers that rose to fame in the 80’s.
It is an open secret that many of the most ubiquitous brands have staffs that scour many of these retailers for ideas that surface in future collections. The unfortunate part of the scenario is that the original designer is never given proper credit for the look. Further complicating matters is that the “NEW” garment is passed off as an original concept without any provenance. To take things one step further, the original is rarely improved upon, if not severely diluted.
Once upon a time designers were influenced by an art movement or a period in history or per chance even a location. In the present world of style and fashion, so many designers prefer to use verbal esoterica as a means of description or inspiration. Simply said, when YSL presented his homage to the 40’s there was no mistaking it whereas in the 21st century we get philosophical bull that has nothing to do with the clothes, except in the deluded designer’s head, and everything to do with trying to explain away ugly clothes. If you take it down to bare bones it is this: these are clothes, this is not rocket science and there is no need for a treatise to describe a collection. Clothes should speak for themselves and reflect a designer’s inspiration ... no instruction manual required.
Currently, vintage fashion has become a badge of honor for the wearer as it signifies a great respect for fashion, its history and for the once famous designers. The new owner can proudly state that it is indeed “vintage” or perhaps they can say “oh yes this is where so and so got his ideas from.” The dress, jacket or accessory suddenly has heritage and roots rather than being looked upon as yesterday’s news.
If you accept the tenets of vintage clothes in the same way that you do any collectible, then you have reached a higher plateau of understanding. Such acknowledgements have elevated vintage fashion to its current status by removing any stigma that was once attached. So many designers of the past were true innovators, originators and provocateurs while now we have stylists rather than designers. The originators are too often forgotten.
Vintage fashion/designers occupy an almost reverential position in the hierarchy of createurs. Please consider the following names that influenced and continue to influence fashion to this day: Blass, Chanel, Halston, Christian Dior, Hubert Givenchy, Capucci, Adolfo, Mackie, Valentino Garavani, Anne Klein, YSL, Thea Porter, Bill Gibb, Mollie Parnis, Galanos, Beene, Trigere, Scott Barrie, Ceil Chapman, and so many many more. If you aren’t acquainted with these names then it is safe to say that your fashion education is not complete. These were major players who made fashion an international business. Again it would be like offering a version of the Mona Lisa and not giving credit to Leonardo for the original.
Showing posts with label geoffrey beene. Show all posts
Showing posts with label geoffrey beene. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 7, 2015
Sunday, June 16, 2013
Prabal Gurung resort 2014
Prab doll,
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you but I just
had to speak to you and the resort collection.
So, you wanted to revisit your time with the American master Bill Blass
which is a good thing. The problem is
that I think you memory is playing tricks on you as there aren’t many Blass
references in the collection and if I had to choose an “inspiration” I might
say Beene more than Blass. This of
course will not make much sense if your fashion resume or frame of reference
has 10 minutes expiration.
When you first started, I was so in love with what you were
doing, you were making beautiful clothes that did in fact speak to your time at
Blass and the clothes resonated with so many women at the retail level. Then as if you got drunk on your own press
and Anna’s Kool Aid, you went way out on a limb and started to design, and I
use the term very loosely, these clothes which reminded me of so many other
designers and La Belle … you know of the Lady Marmalade variety.
The clean and non-gimmicky shapes and designs are beautiful
and then you get all twisted up with these print patterns and straps and cut
outs and flanges and such that the clothes start looking more like Zara than
they do Bergdorf’s and that’s where the trouble begins. If Blass was your inspiration why the
pedestrian knits, the puddling pants and those ghastly shoes? Think about it! Blass evoked chic and raffine in the most
classical and simple fashion and was always timely.
So, honeybee, do you think you can toss off the tricks and
trends for Spring and bring us a collection that screams soigne rather than
runway? Huh, huh can you do that? Somehow by bucking the trend train you become
more original than the rest of them … if you catch my drift!
Prab baby, hope we can grab a coffee soon, I miss that
smirking face plastered all over the social rags... we need to catch up and
chat … ciao, ciao kiss, kiss. You have the number...call me
J.
Thursday, February 9, 2012
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