Each season I am reminded that Alexandre Vauthier is a sort of
fashion rockstar. The clothes are not for the shy and retiring and yet the
clothes can have multiple effects on the viewer. For me this season there was a
sort of paean to Yves St Laurent; don’t ask me to explain but I saw it. Whether
it was languid lamé or the deep vee long sleeved shapes or the party dresses,
the polka dots , the sheer tops or the smokings. Whether you agree is not
really as important as that the designer gives them all a new life under his
hand and he has made them part of his vocabulary.
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What I found intriguing this season is that the clothes are
not totally all about sexy and hot. Yes the tailor in him proffers the suitlike
dresses/smokings which he is more than capable of given his roots but there is this amazing slickness
and polish and a possible undercurrent of decadence but I guess easiest to say. .. Alexandre
Vauthier has a point of view and he retains all the “genetics” of his brand’s
DNA. Try this on for size ?? … Vauthier evokes an
almost tableau vivant or short subject “film” of Helmut Newton lensing YSL!!! Think about
it!
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Collection wise, the appeal is broader than usual, hot as
usual, sometimes oversexed, sometimes a bit B&D and always with that under
current rocker vibe. Okay so we can say he is a real rockstar of fashion and
unlike so many of his peers, he is true to himself and to his clientele season
after season while massaging and tweaking what he does best.
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Take note of his use of lashing, the leathers worked as is
if satin and a personal favorite was the lace side ruffle wrap with sheer top
which gave the illusion of being totally weightless, naked and covered up!
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