Showing posts with label MFW. women. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MFW. women. Show all posts

Monday, February 27, 2017

50 Frames of MEH MFW fall 2017



The fashion violations have been recorded ….  The fashion police have been working overtime …. Whatever happened to fashion?  The citations have been issued…



COME SI DICE or How do you say .... 
click image to enlarge



Oops
click image to enlarge



WTF
click image to enlarge



Can this be fashion? 
click image to enlarge



What were you thinking?
click image to enlarge



Better luck next time!
click image to enlarge



Boners!
click image to enlarge



Who told you that  you  were a designer?
click image to enlarge




Cant you see whats wrong here ?


click image to enlarge
What a mess!
click image to enlarge

Sunday, February 26, 2017

Salvatore Ferragamo MFW fall 2017



Since the departure of Massimiliano Giornetti, I have cast a wary eye towards the brand that the designer cultivated and reimagined during his tenure brand. Last season I was taken with Fulvio Rigoni’s collection but this season yields and elicits an even stronger reaction.
click image to enlarge



Let me preface to say, I am not sure this collection is geared to the existing Ferragamo customer BUT this is a collection that is designed! It is laser sharp and created with a deft skilled hand and a discerning eye. I was first taken with the “color blocking” which was achieved in a series of patterns rather than with color and done in the most subtle of ways. 
click image to enlarge


Then of course there is the overall mean clean sharp silhouette … almost minimal, not clinical, but in some ways very chic, but nevertheless hard-edged. It’s a very lean presentation in terms of looks but it is laser focused on daywear which in my opinion in the way to go these days.
click image to enlarge



So, one must assume that a new direction has been set for the brand which will take some time to gestate and gain a toehold at retail but hell, it is a pleasure to witness a collection that has actually been designed, thought out and not another “me too” moment. If I was forced to draw a comparison, I might liken it the mindset of Akris.


Again, part of my attraction is the subtlety that the designer has used to send the message which IMHO is very much of the DNA of the brand. The brand is not a screaming “look at me” brand but one of those heritage brands that has emerged as fashion that does not lean on trend. As usual the collection is heavy on outerwear but surprisingly lean on accessories which is a bit strange but in one respect, that does allow you to solely focus on the clothes.
click image to enlarge



And in a rare moment of restrained praise I say ... I look forward to what comes next in the evolution of the brand

Friday, February 24, 2017

Versace MFW fall 2017



Here is when you have to imagine what would have happened if a clear mind had prevailed and taken it upon themselves to edit the collection and yield a cohesive non gimmicky moment for this troubled brand. The trouble comes from the consistent flip flopping of looks in past seasons as well as the brand having lost much of its luster as well as its identity. 
click image to enlarge


Donatellamamamia could have actually presented a singular message that was deeply rooted in the tailoring DNA of the brand but instead it went to hell in a hurry with the sometimes silly Vetements moments and all the verbiage all over these rather expensive supposedly message sending clothes. It is my opinion that women who spend this kind of money don’t need to spend 1000s when they can achieve the same sentiments in a $20 tee shirt from H&M  or $500 ones from the likes of Vetements or now in the Maria Grazia days of Dior. 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge


Yes, I can forgive the overly exaggerated shoulders and the Donatellamamamia makeup of the models but how slick would it have been to show those Helmut Newtony rigidly tailored dominatrix power suits which would run counter to the current moods in our fashion capitols. Alas, Signora gives in to trend and gimmick and it cost her in more ways than one. When the signature chain mail pieces fall flat and the so called evening wear is either too tricked out or yawn worthy … well then you know something isn’t quite right.
click image to enlarge


So to demonstrate the point I broke it out in sets of images . .. the boners and the beautiful.. you decide!
click image to enlarge

Moschino MFW fall 2017



WE INTERRUPT OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAMMING FOR THIS IMPORTANT MESSAGE!
click image to enlarge


Apparently the brand has 2 different designers since there is a portion, which albeit with some small changes, might be considered commercially viable if not quite pretty. Of course, the changes involved would be to remove any of the sight gags and gimmicks heavily leaned upon by Mr. Scott. The bigger problem is that Franco was an original and his humor can’t be mimicked or captured forever. Franco had an original tongue in cheek sense of humor combined with kitsch combined with genuine talent. Mr. Scott on the other hand does not possess all of these traits… or at least they have not been exposed yet.
click image to enlarge


The supposed humor and kitsch factor is wearing thin as the silly supposedly designs; the street wise over patterning that was what Mr. Scott did before hitching his wagon to Moschino is also something that is wearing even thinner. The Moschino apparel customer ... if there really is one ... must either be of Asian descent or possibly just a women who sees her life to be lived as a cartoon character rather than a woman who lives in reality.
click image to enlarge


 Cardboard boxes and d shipping labels and materials ...  frankly it’s looking forced ... trash bags, bubble wrap, duct tape,   Persian rug dresses, candelabras on the head or trashcan hats ... it’s all been done and it was really only funny the first time .. Time to take the brand to the next level ... you might want to ask yourself... what might that be?
click image to enlarge