Wednesday, October 6, 2010

PARIS ...ANDREW GN, AKRIS, GIVENCHY, CELINE, ALEX MABILLE






Andrew Gn opened up with a series of virginal white long dresses complete with ruffles and tiers and shades of the 70’s. Decidedly hippy and a heavy concentration on day clothes which is not the normal M O for this house. Missing were the embellished and decorative dressy dresses of past seasons but we received Mr. Gn’s take on broderie anglaise which hardly filled the void left by the disappearance of his usual ornate creations.

Akris provided plenty of the house’s DNA in the form of clean sharp lined clothing which bore more than a striking resemblance to Dries Van Noten. The urbane slick lady clothes from Akris will keep their clientele smiling and the registers ringing.

Givenchy, Ricardo Tisci, kept that punk moment alive but with a preponderance of black which seems to be the “anti-color” this season. It seemed that the collection leaned very hard on Mr. Tisci’s love for leopard and zippers but they did little to make this collection a standout. This was not replay nor was it the extended play we have seen in the past few days from so many collections. The rock star DNA and glamour that has pervaded this collection in the past seems absent or hidden due to the complicated way the clothes were shown.

Alexis Mabille is one of the rising stars of Paris fashion and this season there was a seismic shift toward daytime attire which was a great disappointment. Decidedly graphic and feminine with hints of 70’s silhouettes but there were some stellar moments with divine white blouses and some superb dresses. His palette remained restrained which worked to his advantage on many levels.

Celine, Phoebe Philo, returns after a watershed Fall collection and hit the extended play button with more relaxed shapes which were riffs on Fall. The shapes were relaxed and yet managed to hold onto the clean lines which propelled her to dizzying heights after the past collection. This season we get a taste of the artisan with some hand woven silks and some less successful prints which seemed awkward. Nevertheless, the DNA of the brand has been altered but far from destroyed.