Tuesday, September 14, 2010

NYFW--DIANE,DONNA,HALSTON,VICTORIA,TOM






VICTORIA BECKHAM returns for Spring 2011 with a looser, but shapely and still sexy silhouette. There is no mistaking the feminine body conscious shapes that have become her trademark. She has shown us that she is quite capable of producing very alluring and salable collections while sticking to her original design philosophy

DIANE von FURSTENBERG has appeared this season as, if one can believe it, a slightly more restrained personality and not so much the what she couldn’t wear she carried persona of times gone by. The new season brings a new glamour to the collection while still retaining the whimsy and easy dressing which is part of the DVF DNA!

TOM FORD has made a discreet reappearance to the scene with a very hush hush intimate showing at his boutique on Madison Avenue. Since no press was allowed entry, the only images which will be available will be through the house photographer and designer. My take is yada, yada, yada!

HALSTON...the powers that be have finally allowed Marios Schwab to delve into the rich Halston archive and present inspiration mined from the glory days of the house. The history belongs here in the signature collection and not in the dreadfully cheap Heritage group which is headed by the equally inept SJP. Mr. Schwab has definitely found some of the signature shapes but what is lacking here is the weightless and almost ethereal quality that many of the original Halston creations possessed. The slightly heavier hand is easily corrected and hopefully next time out, the prints will be more controlled and less over powering.

REEM ACRA….the collection appeared to be lacking its usual slick controlled look. Ms. Acra says she is now dressing younger starlets and wanted a younger look but, showing less than stellar pieces with flat shoes and with a leather belt does not do the trick. Bring back some of the wonderful appeal that has made the brand a red carpet staple.

DONNA KARAN…another season of languid, drapey almost wispy confections. Where is the slick and chic sportswear from which Ms. Karan built her brand and her reputation. One would have hoped for some sort of reprise of her initial namesake collection, given that it is its 25th anniversary. Ms. Karan has apparently abandoned that customer and now designs as she dresses which therein lays a problem. One must ponder how many of her clientele are multi millionaires with multiple homes and preponderance for travel and Zen philosophy. The collection of almost every shade of beige imaginable is pretty enough with a few rare of moment which harkens back to Ms. Karan’s original roots.