Friday, September 17, 2010
NY FASHION WEEK ..MARCHESA,KORS,BLASS,PROENZA SCHOULER, KRAKOFF, MILLY
With more than just a nod to Dior and McQueen, the designing ladies of Marchesa have delivered one more spectacular collection of red carpet and camera ready confections. The trend of folds and the origami aspects have more than been adapted to suit the specifications of the Marchesa look.
The crown prince of urbane, chic and slick sportswear has presented his take on Spring 2011and he will be keeping his crown yet one more season. Mr. Kors has moments of spectral colors surrounded by whites and neutral that will delight men and women of many age groups. The look is softer than and not as rigid as perhaps his Fall collection but nonetheless ever so divine.
Jeffrey Monteiro has been assigned the huge task of reviving, yet one more time, the namesake collection. He offers glimmers of hope that he might have an understanding of the DNA of Bill Blass and hopefully he will be showing more and more. Razor sharp edges and impeccable tailoring were always part of the DNA as well as the total look of an outfit. There is a long road ahead if Mr. Monteiro has the ability to restore the luster and the glory of the iconic brand.
Proenza Schouler boys, Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez, delivered a grown up collection without all the gimmicks of over styling. There were great dresses and wonderful 2pc. dressing but when evening approached there were some very dicey moments with transparency. The young look was further thwarted by that awful below the knee hemline which flattters almost no one.
Reed Krakoff is insistent on being a designer entity unto himself despite his success with Coach. In his namesake collection, which is in its second season, the DNA has not yet been fully developed and that's where the issues begin. One can assume that the collection will remain on its minimalist path but when Mr. Krakoff veers off that path, then we see trouble. Again we see the folds and the origami work of so many collections but here we see it become clumsy. Even his use of red jolts us as with his black: they become odious under his hand.
Milly,Michelle Smith. deftly delivers a light hearted , colorful, sophisticated grouping with great patterns and mixes of color. The collection has little age discrimination and offers up cosmoplitan and slightly retro clothes for all ages.
Please consult www.style.com for thorough coverage of these collections and more