Thursday, September 30, 2010
PARIS ...Dries van Noten, Zac Posen, Rue de Mail, Gareth Pugh
Dries van Noten, while an acquired taste, delivered a particularly beautiful collection based on ease, comfort and chic. There was something about the jackets that presage a 21st century Annie Hall, a relaxed somewhat androgynous look and with a major concentration on a starched white shirt. They are approachable, understandable, urbane clothes for women who want to look chic and not “done up.” The was even a moment of JEANS, which sure looked like a very desirable, if not preferable, alternative to “jeggings.”
Rue Du Mail, Martine Sitbon, and Mr. Obama have a thing for transparency except that the former favors it when part of a dress. The palette is lively without being overbearing and the silhouettes easy to wear. Keep an eye on the ruffles as they appeared in Milan and they might just turn out to be trend worthy here in Paris
Gareth Pugh turned out, what can only be viewed as variations on a theme rather than a collection of ready to wear. The clothes were disappointingly influenced by McQueen, Mugler, Rick Owens, and possibly even Paco Rabanne. Apart from all the technical innovation of fabric and the craftsmanship involved in constructing the garments in these fabrics, somehow the focus of a collection got lost.
Zac Posen, pauvre Zac, who made his freshman appearance at the Paris collections, and I must say left an unforgettable impression. The clothes reflect an absolute ignorance of design unless he was auditioning for that of costume designer at the Folies Bergere. There were very minor lapses where he showed some promise but then it veered quickly back to the wardrobe call for Irma la Douce 2011. If you are unfamiliar with the plot of the movie, goggle it!! He has single handedly lowered the bar for the Paris week of fashion…….call it Zac’s Folly!!