Showing posts with label fashion publications. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion publications. Show all posts

Monday, June 3, 2013

Meet Gladys Pering Palmer .. a force of fashion



Gladys Perint Palmer is the rarest of a species known as “fashion folk!”  Here is a woman who studied on both sides of the Atlantic at 2 of the world’s most prestigious “colleges” and has been giving back to her passion/art/craft/profession ever since.  She has lived internationally and has been a chronicler or maybe a diarist of the world of fashion.  The one thing you can never say of Ms. Palmer is that she was an observer who sat by and watched!

With this in mind, she has been an illustrator, educator, editor, friend and so much more to so many within the international world of fashion.  She remains as active as she has always been; after all, fashion is in her genetic make-up, it is not just her profession.  She is immersed, engaged, intertwined and is an integral part of fashion as we know it today.  In much more common vernacular... “She is a player!” …no dilettante is she.

To highlight her appearance tomorrow, Tuesday June 4, at Neiman Marcus (SF) which celebrates the release of her newest book Adam & Yves, I introduce you to Gladys Perint Palmer whom I suspect will be a good friend of mine for years to come.  My advice is to pay close attention to her as she not only brings her knowledge and talent to the table; she brings her unrestrained wit and encyclopedic insights!  Brava! Bravo! And Kudos to you Gladys





1-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?
Silver ribcage wheelie by McQueen.
2-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?
Honesty and irony.
3-What is your bliss?
Fresh snow, empty piste, no snowboarders.
4-What is your guilty secret?
Two Mont Blancs– a chestnut and cream confection at Angelina (cafĂ© on the rue de Rivoli in Paris); and my fat Mont Blanc pen.
5-Where is your ideal home?
An island a thousand miles North of California  
6-If you could not be a designer/retailer/etc:, what would you be
A detective because I enjoy research and discovering things.
7-What is on your bedside table right now?
Clutter observed by a curious peacock outside the window
8-What do you wear to bed?
Valentino bed-jacket, if it’s chilly.
9-What if any, book are you reading now or last read?
‘The Hare with Amber Eyes’ by Edmund de Waal.
10-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”
Persist, Push, be Patient.
11-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?
Muriel Pemberton, my mentor, my teacher, a great artist, who invented fashion education
12-What is the best advice you ever received?
“Go to the head of the river, darling, and wait. The bodies of your enemies will float past.”
13-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.
4 Too much.
14-If you were a retailer, would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store? or where would you shop?
I’d shop when I travel, as I do now, and buy only what I cannot resist.
15-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?
Underwrite small opera companies.
16-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?
Jesus Christ, Buddha, Mohamed and Moses – to enlighten me
17-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?
Beverly Hills Cop with Eddie Murphy
18-What is the one thing you would change about yourself?
Never gain weight.
19-Whose opinion do you value most?
Those who know me well and wish me well.
20-What store or which designer do you most like to shop in or wear ?
Picasso said, “I don’t look for things, I find them”.
21-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?
I like books, I’m addicted to Facebook;  magazines are for the bath (if too heavy, I rip out the ad pages).
22-Do you have a dream collaborator?
No.
23-What is your crowning achievement thus far in your career?
My sons, Tim (left) and Barnaby Palmer.
24-What’s your music library like?
Classical.
25-What and where is your favorite meal?
Foie gras at La Cordonnerie, 20 rue Saint Roch in Paris.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Fashion Flux pt.3.. The Sorceress



Okay, this should just about finish my thoughts on the state of fashion up until today, that is!  I have talked about the “consolidation” of fashion as well as fashion reviews and the sameness of fashion.  I have covered a lot of ground but there is more on the horizon that is unfolding right before your eyes but you need to be aware and take note of it and take heed!!

I incorrectly referred to Conde Nast as the mother ship when in fact it is Advance Publications that is the mother ship as they are the awning under which all else is housed.(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advance_Publications#Publications).. This is truly enlightening.

Conde Nast is the arm or division or “area” which is most powerfully influential to me as it is they who decide on the dissemination of a tonnage of fashion information.  Yes, this is a deliberate effort on their part as to what can only be termed fashion a monopoly or purveyor of fashion propaganda.  And, if there is ONE person who will ultimately and probably already has been written into the annals of fashion history in the 20th and 21st century, it is most certainly Anna Wintour who has now added “Artistic Director for Conde Nast” to her litany of titles as of this very week; a new but sweepingly inclusive title that supersedes anyone or anything else within the fashion media business.

Let me backtrack this a bit, we have Signorina Nuclear Wintour who 25 years came to Vogue and in that time has redefined fashion on her terms, all based on her ideas and her theories of the who, what and where of fashion.  You with me??  So she starts in print or ink as an editor and  then with the passage of time and a few continents, she has insinuated herself into almost every aspect of international fashion from show calendars to special events to the good, bad, the bad, the ugly and who is fashionable and who is not. Oh and did mention  her skills as head hunter/matchmaker?  Hang in there as it is about to get more interesting.
She is now the “godfather or Popessa” of fashion in terms of who will “get in” or “stay in,” receives honors, will be blessed, pardoned, or sentenced.  Instead of seeing George Washington hanging in the classroom you will be seeing Anna with her bob and dark glasses peering over the future of fashion.  A dreary thought but indeed possible given her Herculean ambitions, reach and powers. Still with me here??  By the way, ring kissing is acceptable behavior here as she must be adored, admired and obeyed!

The bottom line here is simply that Anna Wintour will, if she hasn’t already, eclipsed every major fashion personality and fashion titan of the 21st century when it comes to the dictates of fashion.  She may not be revered in the same way that Diana Vreeland has been but there is no question that her influence will far outlast the legacy of Mrs. Vreeland.  Mrs. Vreeland changed our fashion perspective for  a “moment in time” in magazines and museums but The Kaiserine Wintour will have changed our view  of every facet of fashion for possibly generations to come… this is not a thought that sits well with me but I feel it is much more a reality than a fantasy.  She is part editor, CPA, ATM, branding expert, dictator and star maker.

Within the last month or so, Advance or Conde Nast, in essence, one of the same, has invested in a couple of internet shopping sites.  Granted this may not seem like a game changer but chew on this for a bit … Anna has changed the way we see the business of fashion, literally, like it or not, she has influenced what we think of fashion with her all inclusive vision and leaden sway... This is evidenced already in magazines, on line magazines, fashion websites, reviews and all things within the orbit of  fashion.  With me here ?? So now it makes sense, that Missy , the center of this universe, will soon be curating how you shop for fashion by influencing who, what, where and how you shop via these websites with the same ardor she has utilized in printed and internet  communication .. are you reading me loud and clear?  I don’t want to make it sound that she is a one woman censor but that aint far from the truth given her spheres of influence and  the loyal minions and outlets at her disposal.  So, I am thinking that now, more than ever, is the time to speak up and make your feelings known about this “fly” in the ointment.  Today it is a fly or a little pest and soon, without notice it will be Rodan or the fly that took over the world  ..think on it!

For me, I will speak as loudly as I have been and I will retain my own view and perspective on the world of fashion as there is more than one way of seeing it.  The paradigm of fashion power shift has forever... well maybe not forever... been transferred into the hands “one person” and that is not something that should have happened in this business.  In a business that prided itself on independent thinkers and individual schools of thought we have allowed ourselves to be held captive by the hubris of a woman who has steamrolled over an entire industry to “see it her way!”





I am not ready to throw in the towel just yet!
*** original art by Marc-Antoine Coulon***