HAUTE COUTURE... GIVENCHY / Ricardo Tisci

I cannot claim to understand the inspiration nor the rendering of this collection by Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy. He has taken the brand to a direction, especially in couture, which I fail to comprehend beyond the labor intensive designs. These are not clothes; they seem to be “balls out” excruciatingly expensive costumes which bear no relation to a real life situation other than a costume party. According to the powers that be at Givenchy, their haute couture business is ‘way ahead” which I cannot explain under pain of death. My only question can be “where did it start from?”

HAUTE COUTURE...CHANEL/Karl Lagerfeld

Along the many pieces shown at the couture collection was, of course, the “bon mots’ of none other than Karl Lagerfeld. He espoused that “life is not a cocktail party” as his modus operandi for his collection meaning that the couture is steeped in day clothes and the collection thus reflected that notion. Secondly, and most importantly, Mr. Lagerfeld has probably sounded the death knell for platforms and stiletto height defying heels. The entire collection was show with a simple flat which was designed as “the naked shoe.” If you are unfamiliar with the term, please see “The Naked Shoe” by Jane Julianelli.
Back to the collection, which was a series of barely there colors which was also barely if not at all accessorized. There is no question that the shapes were very controlled and very understandable for the Chanel clientele. Monsieur Lagerfeld concentrated on simplicity with many dropped waists, empire waists and a-lines for his silhouettes. Without question, the star of the show was the “ateliers Chanel.” The spidery embroidery and the all over bead work are exquisite beyond words as usual. The grouping is, of course, modern and thoroughly aimed at the Chanel ladies.

HAUTE COUTURE... ALEXIS MABILLE

In a stroke of genius, as I see it, Mr. Mabille created a small amount of styles and multiplied that times 2. Each piece was shown in white and the companion, its twin, was either shown in color or in print. What makes this most impressive is that with limited styles he has managed to make ‘the twins” fraternal and not identical. He shows a deft had here and has a great comprehension for the couture. There is no question that Mr. Mabille has made a name for himself in a very short span of time and he will definitely be one of the greats for the 21st century. The clothes tend to be clean and with little ornamentation but yet very very beautiful and appealing.

HAUTE COUTURE... CHRISTIAN DIOR/John Galliano

Another season, another reason for doing the spectacular…and once again, Mr. Galliano has dipped into the archive of Dior and this time pulled out the “New Look” as seen through the eyes of Rene Gruau, Dior’s illustrator of the 40’s and 50’s. These are the times when the likes of Barbara Hutton, Millicent Rogers and Mona Bismarck populated the house of Dior and were at the vanguard of style. This Spring, Mr. Galliano has once more tested the limits of the Dior ateliers and once again accomplished what few will ever even hop to dream of. The pale palette and the arresting shapes are really beyond verbiage…they are confections of glamour, technique and design that very few will ever come close to during their careers.

HAUTE COUTURE... ARMANI/PRIVE

The man does what he wants, when he wants and how he wants. Mr. Armani bows to very few if any trends and for the most part has nothing to prove to anyone but himself. That said the Spring couture collection is a trip either into the future or back down memory lane…depending on how you see things. One can say there are references to Cardin and maybe even Balenciaga, but then again maybe Mugler or conversely was it “La Gaga” who made him choose this path.
With couture, the premiere concern is selling one on one and the Armani client will be ecstatic with his new take on his signature colors and shapes but also with the extra added features of leggings and some brave new shapes, cuts and silhouettes. The collection is gem toned, geometric, graphic, structured without being rigid and most of all “high on sheen.” Think of it as the Armani metal moment!!

BAGGED

The retail landscape is such that it is filled to capacity with a sameness of product. No matter what the item or its price, there is some watered down version to appeal to almost any customer. Nowhere is this more prevalent than in the handbag category, whether it is diluting the latest Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs, or Valentino “it” bag, one can find some version somewhere and at a price that you can afford and still get the look that you want

. Today is about two resources who are not about being “me too’s,” they stand on their own knowing that they produce a magnificent handmade items, made of the finest materials that only a few can afford.

Steven Harkin (www.stevenharkinhandbags.co.uk) is first up with a stunning collection of handbags and accessories for both men and women. Mr. Harkin presents a more structured product that comes in varying degrees of appeal for those interested in either utility or cutting edge design. The bags take shape from backpacks to shoulder bags to belts to clutches all made in Italian cowhide to your specifications. This to me is the epitome of fashion, when one can own a handbag that does not look every other handbag you see on the street. This is a collection for the discerning and well educated fashion client.

Fossati (www.fossatius.com) is similar in its methodology of doing business except here there is a deliberate intention of offering only luxury exotic skins in limited numbers and in limited styles. From “ring lizard” to karung, to painted python, you will find exquisite “jewels” which will last a life time because of their classic styling and their “uber” hand craftsmanship. There is an extra added aspect of these “gems” as they are produced in the USA but in an artisan “old world” atelier rather than some sterile mass producing factory. Each piece is numbered and includes the “edition.”

Call it art, call it jewelry, call it bespoke, but never mistake either one of these designers for mass produced leather goods.

Tee Time

Well it is going to be Tee time before we know it, at least once all this winter weather disappears. The one good thing is that it is always Tee time almost everywhere. The tee shirt has become an all year item whether it is layered or worn on its own. This week is about 2 companies which offer tees and some complimentary items which might be of interest.

Rizumu ( www.rizumuplanet.com ) is the brain child of a former movie marketing executive who started this lifestyle brand of tees and accessories after being drawn back to his first love….fashion. The company focuses on the DJ culture with special attention paid to comic book art complete with featured graphic artists. There are even pieces of jewelry which are included and now Pauly D from The Jersey Shore (MTV) has been caught wearing it. It’s a must have for yourself or the totally connected music lover in your life. My favorite piece is the multi zip sweat jacket ….and the best part is that it is totally unisex so everyone can have it.

Manaomakani ( www.manaomakani.com ) is the brainchild of an industry veteran who has spent his life creating clothes for the Gap, Express, and Esprit to name a few. Now he wants to give back to the environment and has created this collection of TOTALLY ecologically and environmentally friendly tees and hoodies. It is amazing that the entire manufacture is “green” as well as all the part and materials….which is really rare as most companies boast eco-friendly materials and then are made in the hell hole factories of China, but these products are 100% green and made in san Francisco. The company even gives back financially after each purchase. The bottom line is, you get to do your part for the environment as well as own a truly spiritual article of clothing. Read the history on their site and be motivated to help beautify the world in the literal and figurative sense. ALOHA for this week ………….

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