Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Alexandre Vauthier haute couture fall 2017



Each season I am reminded that Alexandre Vauthier is a sort of fashion rockstar. The clothes are not for the shy and retiring and yet the clothes can have multiple effects on the viewer. For me this season there was a sort of paean to Yves St Laurent; don’t ask me to explain but I saw it. Whether it was languid lamé or the deep vee long sleeved shapes or the party dresses, the polka dots , the sheer tops or the smokings. Whether you agree is not really as important as that the designer gives them all a new life under his hand and he has made them part of his vocabulary.
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What I found intriguing this season is that the clothes are not totally all about sexy and hot. Yes the tailor in him proffers the suitlike dresses/smokings which he is more than capable of given  his roots but there is this amazing slickness and polish and a possible undercurrent of decadence  but I guess easiest to say. .. Alexandre Vauthier has a point of view and he retains all the “genetics” of his brand’s DNA.  Try  this on for size ?? … Vauthier evokes an almost tableau vivant or short subject “film”  of Helmut Newton lensing YSL!!! Think about it!
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Collection wise, the appeal is broader than usual, hot as usual, sometimes oversexed, sometimes a bit B&D and always with that under current rocker vibe. Okay so we can say he is a real rockstar of fashion and unlike so many of his peers, he is true to himself and to his clientele season after season while massaging and tweaking what he does best.
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Take note of his use of lashing, the leathers worked as is if satin and a personal favorite was the lace side ruffle wrap with sheer top which gave the illusion of being totally weightless, naked and covered up!
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