FASHION IN GENERAL

This season I find it extremely disconcerting that the shows /clothes must be intellectualized beyond any reason in order to validate what was seen on the run way and done so by those who should know better ..................I want to know why or how several of the collections were lauded and praised when simply they are not pretty ...not wearable.........have no particular reason for being other than one day a year which is Halloween ..........I understand that no ones wants to speak ill in times like these but in the same breath how could you insult your peers and give some diatribe on some hideous junk which might be a feat of construction and engineering but has the salability/wearability factor of a thumbtack .........These are hardly the times to be intellectually posturing about clothes ---it is the time we need to think about giving that customer a reason to buy clothes TO WEAR not as collectors items

PARIS REVIEW FALL 2009

The shows are over and the reviews are in but I think that the season was far more fabulous than the retailers gave them credit for ....the translation is that when the collections become too commercial (wearable) the critics are overly critical .......I believe that there were over the top collections and safe collections but certainly not boring or dull -----at a time when the retail environment is so difficult how can any retailer speak of the merits of Comme des Garcons...I find it particularly difficult to believe that this collection will pay the rent but Lanvin was too safe ---HUH???? What is it that doesn't allow me to compute this evaluation ?????........At any rate I am happy to be on the sidelines with my observations ..what with traffic down ..prices up ...oceans of black ....budgets cut ........and high prices ..it is simply not easy to be in the fashion biz these days

HERMES ELIE SAAB JOHN GALLIANO PARIS 2009 FALL

HERMES -What can one say when see the best that money can offer ....it is louche luxe..it is so good ..so chic..it is the true literal definition of investment dressing and the best Browns that side of the Atlantic.......... ELIE SAAB.. With the new addition of what i call "Jewelry Dresses" or "FUR COAT DRESSES" comes a welcomed new point of view to mesh with the new restrained red carpet gowns which are decidedly more low key but nonetheless beautiful..........JOHN GALLIANO ......It's Russian nesting dolls taken to the Nth degree---over the top embellishments --over the top shapes/proportions--this wqas wearbility be damned ..but fabulous

CHANEL 2009 FALL PARIS

WHY is it that the man who calls himself Karl Lagerfeld can deliver a CHANEL collection that is so in keeping with our times and yet he has not held back anything .........this is a collection of soigne ..chic..ageless...timeless clothes----This literally is something for everyone ..well at least those who can afford ...but of any age--it seems odd that here no one will criticize him for being commercial since he is the only one who managed to be commercial yet true to the brand with no sacrifice

ALEXANDER McQUEEN PARIS FALL 2009

ALEXANDER McQUEEN has never been for the feint of heart but this season ..if you strip away the over the top shoes and make up ...you get to see that Mr. McQueen is a master of his art...FASHION!!!! The show was what fashion is made of and will continue to be for those who are unashamed of their talent and unafraid of showmanship.....so ,it would have been an unwise move on his part if he had shown a collection of perfectly wearable nondescript clothes so instead he stayed true to his DNA and delivered laser detailed tailoring and unbelievably constructed dresses which his customer will only be too happy to wear

QUINTESSENTIAL CHANEL

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-CHANEL/

SUPERB DIVINE

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2009RTW-AMCQUEEN

MARTIN GRANT FALL 2009 PARIS

MARTIN GRANT --Here's something refreshing ..clothes to wear --chic--elegant--timeless--the collection may not set the world on fire but when the customer might be looking for investment clothes or just clothes that don't scream any particular season .....then MARTIN GRANT is the man of the hour......i am thinking there is some sort of correlation to the Ralph Rucci customer

VALENTINO FALL 2009 PARIS

if the beauty is in the details then this collection fell short of the expectation of that this duo would deliver...While the clothes were pretty enough these NEW designers have to learn how to fit the clothes to the models ..the dresses looked too big and might have benefitted from a few inches removed from the length ...considering that these 2 were doing accessories , I would have to ask ..What happened to the accessories ????..some fabulous jewelry --fabulous shoes ---anything except a clutch bag, might have brought out the drama of the collection ...so in essence ----TRY TRY AGAIN

TRES CHIC

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-VALLI/

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI PARIS FALL 2009

GIMABATTISTA VALLI--There is something about his collections that keep me coming back to see what he is doing and now I can see that the curiousity is well founded ....while I am not sure I agree with the LENGTH of the collection i most certainly agree with the chic of the collection ...beautifully shown ...beautifully rendered ..just enough luxe ---was a pleasure to watch

YSL-- VICTOR&ROLF--STELLA McCARTNEY

YSL--If this is what pulling back means then by all means let it all out ..the collection was autere--slick and yet I kept waiting for something to happen ...which never did ---while it had the elements of classic YSL the collection never got off the ground for me

VICTOR &ROLF--Well we know these boys can drive home the THEME of their collections but while I found the Statuary to be a great reference I found the make up distracting and I was not sure that the static quality of a statue, frozen at that moment in time , made for a collection of wearable inviting clothes .....

STELLA McCARTNEY ..while not a fan of hers, I found the collection to be quite welcoming ---the tailoring ..the dresses...this looked grown up to me and I am sure for many of the retailers

OOH LA LA LACROIX !!!

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-CLACROIX/

CHRISTIAN LACROIX PARIS 2009 FALL

LACROIX---Someone wise once told me that in order to be a premiere designer one had to know all the rules before one could play around and break the rules ...and so Monsieur Lacroix has indeed shown us that he is a master of the rules and doesn't need all the bells and whistles to deliver a blockbuster collection aimed at women who want beautiful clothes ...the signatures are there--the shapes --the tailoring --JOLIE FEMME !!

GIVENCHY ANDREW GN PARIS FALL 2009

GIVENCHY-Ricardo Tisci is a long way from Monsieur Hubert but this season he has exhibited a more matured collection that has its own brand of chic......the chic has been missing from previous seasons..this season heavy on the plumage and draping but included are some blockbuster suits and dresses

ANDREW GN --usually known for over the top embroideries and embellishment gave us a more restrained GN but still heavily ornamented but this eason with more tone on tone and contrasst materials and yet some of the most spectacular pieces had little to no embellishment at all

UNGARO AKRIS RYKIEL PARIS 2009 FALL

UNGARO -Esteban Cortazar dug into the archives and found the DNA of Ungaro and now he must temper his collection to envelop the essence of Ungaro
AKRIS--once known as an old lady collection and now clean- simple and slick design is the order of the day --so forget the inspirations and don't fix what's not broken
SONIA RYKIEL--the perfect case of not fixing what's not broken ---she manages to breathe the new into the tried and true

LOEWE FALL 2009

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-LOEWE/

LOEWE PARIS FALL 2009

LOEWE>>>>It might seem odd timing to relaunch a venerable name know for its leather goods but when you thiink about it ..maybe not so odd.....The company has sort of dusted itself off and offered a collection of rather tasty looking ready to wear including leathers...one might think that LOEWE might be what Gucci was when there were Guccis still involved ----what happened to that customer...my guess is that she is still around and so is her daughter and maybe her daughter's daughter..so maybe ...just maybe when that affluent customer is looking for discreet luxury , she might just find her way to LOEWE
PS..the clothes looked great --the bags looked great ---time to get on those shoes

JP GAULTIER PARIS 2009 FALL

The bad boy of Paris is all grown up ---still mischevious but the tricks have matured ...The customer is all grown up and now is offered up JPG's sense of humor as well as intrigue--B/D..S/M worked into a disciplined chic fishnet theme where "X" marks the spot and fishnet might be seen on a trench coat-----it's fun to be able to buy clothes that still have a customer and that are not as serious as a heart attack and require no drawn out references to some esoterica

PARIS GAULTIER

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-JPGAULTI/

PARIS 2009 FALL

I am not sure how one addresses the ultimate chic collection, but I must scream Bravo and more to Alber Elbaz for a LANVIN for such perfection ..this is retro yet modern ----simple yet extravagant--Paris yet New York City-and chic to the nth degree.........................DIOR certainly comes in a close second , just not in the same vein----this was color and pattern --in a collection with homage to Poiret and orientalia----a collection that shows off the ateliers of Dior as well as the extraordinary talents of John Galliano

MERCI PARIS !!!!
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-LANVIN/

OOH LA LA DIOR BABY
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-CDIOR/

OLIVIER THEYSKINS NINA RICCI

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-NRICCI/

PART 2--- PARIS WHENIT SIZZLES

AZZARO..Aside from one awkward jumpsuit , this was an extremely wearable -chic-and tastelly simple collection made up of what i call "L A day clothes" --cocktail dress and gowns all of which never pass the line to showy
BRUNO PIETERS... well about 1/2 way thru I realized this is getting verrrrrrrry boring ---over and over the rigid hard edged clothes done up in a less that exuberant palette of brown grey and black ....but one must give credit that he sticks to his story and thats it ---there is no deviation

PARIS ---WHEN IT SIZZLES

So after what I would call a soft start , PARIS has quickly picked up the pace ........... I think I need to do this in no prticular order than I must write about OLIVIER THYESKENS /NINA RICCI......In no uncertain terms would I call this show a triumph of taste ....the collection which featured reed slim, sexy ,Mugler-esque clothes that demand and command attention on every level --my only question is what was he thinking with those uber space platform shoes ............if this is to be his last collection for NINA RICCI then it would be an unequivocal swan song that will keep Mr. Theyskens in good stead for many years to come ......BALMAIN..It all boils down to who --where --why--------oodles of sparkle......70's references(Kamali) , but I really wonder what would have happened if these clothes were not crotch grazing .............BALENCIAGA ...NICOLAS GHESQUIERE....With an extreme amount of draping and with extraordinary prowess....this was a very particular for a very particular lady with narrow hips and waist not to mention an extremely large wallet----best was a simple draped black dress worn by Chanel Iman to great advantage

PARIS --LE PREMIER JOUR

Well it is off to a slow start in terms of what might emerge as a trend but the first day also brings one of the future stars of fashion
GARETH PUGH-slick.. grown up ...edgy of course ..keep your eyes on him I believe his collections will mature to full blow greatness within the next few years
KRIS VAN AASCHE --well this is Yoji meets Rei meets Jean Paul Gaultier
ANN VALERIE HASH -- the collection intrigues me due to the small couture collection that she shows during that time---she must have a following for the tailored--wearable--and tastefully chic outfits that she turns out

SUMMATION

So the fashion pundits have spoken and universally praised JIL SANDER--PUCCI--BOTTEGA VENETA--GUCCI ---VERSACE--MARNI--PRADA--CAVALLI---and my question is simple.....so what will you sell to make money ?????Certainly there is no money to be made selling onesies of editorial clothes ,no disco outfits from the 70's and not 80's as supposedly referenced...........one cannot tell me that the matrons who make up the customer base of Neimans--Saks--Bergdorfs and the like will be wearing cupful nude dresses from BOTTEGA or car wash leather dresses from PRADA and surely not studded thigh high skirts from CAVALLI---so after your 20 best customers have bought the editorial stuff what are you going to do to sustain the "couture" level customer for the balance of the season ????

SEE FOR YOURSELF

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-DGABBANA/

DOLCE & GABBANA OVER THE TOP

MILAN LAST BUT NOT LEAST

DOLCE & GABBANA..It is rare for me to to find great merit in this collection but this time around I must say "BRAVA"....this was just a good time romp of what makes fashion an adventure and what makes designers world class designers....the clothes and there were tons of them ...showed off the tailoring abilities as well as their famous senses of humor, glamor and not for the feint of heart ---one needs to see the slides of this runway to the Nth degree show .........

THE LAST OF MILAN

WELL THE END HAS COME....FENDI..It is the laboratory of fashion at work ....POLLINI...young ..spirited dresses and jackets with a non threatening refreshing outlook .....MAX MARA...slick ..Blackless..wearable..chic..discreet luxury ..D SQUARED....everything you will ever need if you are 20 ..fabulous --rich ..uber hip..so I am not sure what relevancy this all has with the fashion flock and then there is ..VERSACE with what was described as "Day" which i construe to see as evening and an almost entirely sleeveless collection of "day" and evening

MILAN WORTH MENTIONING

Maurizio Pecoraro---One would be remiss not to mention this particular collection which hits the right notes without alot of excess baggage
ETRO--CAVALLI are what you expect them to be ---ETRO full of prints and lush color and CAVALLI full of Hollywood flash and sex appeal

MORE MILAN

MORE MILAN --There seems to be a fascination with "origami like folds" for dresses which seems to be as overdone as draping was in the New York collections---as always ,having the ability to do it does not make the item more fashionable or attractive -----actually quite the opposite as evidenced by the team AQUILANO-RIMONDI--just being an architect doesnt make you a great architect !!!!FERRAGAMO -needs to send a memo to their designer reminding her that the company is know for shoes and handbags which were in short supply as were clothes intended for a FERRAGAMO lady

MORE MILAN

MORE MILAN --There seems to be a fascination with "origami like folds" for dresses which seems to be as overdone as draping was in the New York collections---as always ,having the ability to do it does not make the item more fashionable or attractive -----actually quite the opposite as evidenced by the team AQUILANO-RIMONDI--just being an architect doesnt make you a great architect !!!!FERRAGAMO -needs to send a memo to their designer reminding her that the company is know for shoes and handbags which were in short supply as were clothes intended for a FERRAGAMO lady

MARNI 2009 FALL

SOMEONE EXPLAIN THIS TO ME
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-MARNI/

PRADA 2009 FALL

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-PRADA/

MILAN PRADA MARNI

I suppose, that in some far off land where the arcane and the esoteric are the norms , then I would be able to decipher the hieroglyphics of PRADA and MARNI...I am not able to understand why these collections will be praised/lauded ...PRADA made reference to the 40's and either gladiators or flappers in some very weighty looking concoctions with some mighty heavy shoes and bags while I cannot even begin to try to understand MARNI except for its accessories

THANK GOD THEY MAKE ACCESSORIES

The accessories of MARNI and PRADA are certainly more understandable than the collection

WHAT A GOOD TIME!!!

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-BLUMARNE/

MILAN DAY 3

WELL --after a great day comes a day of surprises where we certainly didn't see what was expected
--GUCCI delivered some sort of collection aimed at the monied Forever 21 /H&M crowd--
-BOTTEGA VENETA delivered a supposedly slick clean collection which looked awkward and dull--
-PUCCI needs a new designer already as Peter Dundas' first outing might as well have been anyones collection as it bore no realtion to the house's past ....but
BLUMARINE put a smile on your face and delivered a fun --all out --feel good collection that showed clothes can have a purpose and that the purpose will be apparent to the buyer