Haute couture is unquestionably a rarefied world for both designer and clientele. Mr. Rucci is a designer whose roots are deeply embedded in the couture, even in his ready to wear when it was in existence. His vision of couture is one of subtlety and refinement and not about embellishment or in other words Rucci sees couture in ways that Balenciaga, Charles James and possibly even Delpozo and Ferré saw it.
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These designers were and are the architects of fashion and Rucci is the torch bearer for them in that way. The clothes are constructed without equal and he finds ways to embellish without a sequin or a bead or a feather… all of which have become staples of Haute Couture except Chez Rucci.
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This is a very pared down and believe or not, somewhat more relaxed vision for him. The signatures are there … an extraordinary white column with endless buttons and signature seaming, the sheer inset infanta gown and of course sable. Even the palette has drifted from primarily black and white to now include some dustier shades which now reminds me of that perfect shirtwaist gown in lavender duchess satin (I think).
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Rucci will always be an a acquired taste as he is intractable as well as unwaivering and some say stubborn in his ethic when it comes to clothes. Was I in love with all of it... absolutely not, (the Rick Owensesque pieces confounded me) but there is more than enough to satisfy the most diehard of Rucci fans as well as possibly and hopefully, for his sake, attract a more diverse clientele.
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This is where he belongs, not filling racks in stores with $3000 dresses. He is so much more of an artist extraordinaire rather than one who produces sofa art ... if you catch my drift.
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