The Armani
signatures out loud and all accounted for ... it was jacket heaven and pant
heaven. It was pencil slim or loose as a goose. It was decorated or it was minimal in execution. Every one of
one his pant looks came out for a showing which affected the rest of the turnout
going from clumsy to razor sharp.
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There was
something about this collection that seemed not quite right. There were moments
of retro and moments of trend. Of course, there was an abundance of silk velvet
which is rarely on the top of anyone’s list at retail and then there was of
course the Armani penchant for odd headwear which certainly took away from many
of the looks.
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Frankly, an
editor’s pen might have helped to send the message … not only in silhouettes
but also in the huge assortment of patterned fabrics… I mean really leopard at Armani
is almost unthinkable but yet there it was and it worked… less so some of the
florals and grid like patterns. Then there was the one fur piece which was the 40s
shouldered and peplumed and actually pretty gorgeous not to be outdone by a full-length red croco coat. Then in the midst of it was a series of LBDs.
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The palette
expectedly restrained until we got to the blues which some worked and some not
so much. I can’t put my finger on it but something was off here... the polish
was there but I think some of the urbane slick minimalism was in the minority
which gave way to some rather heavy and dare I say tacky looks with some over
ornamented pieces and again the pants with the banded hems which were shown in
the majority of looks.
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Let’s just
say this is certainly not a collection to be dismissed but it is a far cry from
his memorable collections and even though pre-fall was never meant to get the runway
treatment, I’m betting this show will be head and shoulder better than a lot of
what we will be seeing.
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