Showing posts with label PFW spring 2018. Show all posts
Showing posts with label PFW spring 2018. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 3, 2017

Thom Browne PFW spring 2018



 Imagine if Walter Van Beirendonck, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Sarah Burton, Rei Kawakubo, John Galliano, Martin Margiella and Alexander McQueen gave birth to a baby boy this season and his name is Thom Browne. 

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Do not think that he has copied any of them but he has somehow captured the essence of all of them within one collection.

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There are no words to truly describe but I can say it is a wonder of technique, an unending stretch of one’s imagination and a celebration of the art of art and craft of fashion.
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This is a connoisseur’s collection, a museum collection . .. It has nothing to do with marketability or wearability but it has everything to do with how we view fashion .. it is pure unadulterated spectacle and theater. 
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It is 1000% pure Thom Browne

Chanel PFW spring 2018



Pulling out all the stops once again, Karl just piles it on and keeps it coming. I am reminded of Mrs. Vreeland and her “give them what they never knew they wanted” and in this case there is a treasure trove of stuff that will even attract a new audience as well as bring back the dyed in the wool clientele for more. It’s a Chanel souk!
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Accessories by the boatload, bags, jewelry and, scarves of course the “rainwear” clear vinyl accessories whether boots, shoes, capelets, gloves, handbags, hats and god knows what else, the only item I did not see was the rain bonnet (tied under the chin)  that used to fold up into a flat  pack.
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Every base is covered and some you never knew existed … silhouettes range from boxy and thick to slinky, from long to short and everything in between. It’s a staggering display of what makes Chanel the gold standard for ready to wear at this price point. Tweeds, fringe, skirts, dresses, pants of every length, jackets aplenty, for the first time in my memory some spectacular coats and from stellar and pure Chanel to his now famous clunkers. 
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The tie dyes are somewhat out of place and yet in the world of Chanel that Karl has created, there is nothing that can really be misplaced... It is all fair game and Karl just gets it right. 
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Take note where so many designers would throw in 1 or 2 pieces but Karl offers a small grouping so as not to appear as an afterthought or some silly whim… it is one of the jillion statements of the collection.
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You just can’t help but marvel at the fabrications and the sheer breadth of it all and sadly I am reminded these days that when Karl goes off to wreak havoc on another plane ... the fashion business will be far less without him but his imprimatur and reputation will hopefully and justifiably live on into generations to come .

Monday, October 2, 2017

Akris PFW spring 2018



There are several or possibly a short list of things that seem odd about Akris this season so let me elucidate and elaborate for you ... 
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The clothes are wearable, grown up but ageless, they have a sense of humor, they are actually designed and they don’t look like anyone else’s collection and lest I forget they are PRETTY. Imagine how strange and alien to the eye this is!
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For one of the rare times during this interminable season, here is a collection that actually looks like it is supposed to and that it belongs on a runway and looks like the  season it is … hard pill to swallow… yes? and add to that there really is no explanation needed unless you want  or need to know the origins of the prints
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While so many others are searching for the latest,  the greatest,  the newest and usually a new client every season, Akris garners new clients as well as speaking to their clientele in a language that they understand. Key words here would be flawlessly executed, esthetically beautiful and always something new to explore and offer or in other words Akris gives women a reason to buy these clothes. Imagine that..
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You have vacation clothes, country club clothes, travel clothes , resort clothes, chic clothes, fashiony clothes, city clothes and you don’t look like a thrift store reject or like an unmade bed or possibly  some genetic freak of nature. It’s a tough pill to swallow!
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I tip my hat to Monsieur/Herr Kriemler and say BRAVO to you !!

Sunday, October 1, 2017

Valentino PFW spring 2018



Well... hell has frozen over and Pierpaolo has finally cut the cord from his past collections. 
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The problem is that his new vision is not only blurry but you might think this is a contemporary sportswear collection or maybe young designer. I’m sure there is some convoluted and delusional blahblahblah about how he takes the DNA of Valentino and modernizes it but that surely that’s as nonsensical and deluded as it can be.
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What is interesting is that I did recognize a sleeve treatment from a fall Valentino collection from the very late 80s. There were a few short dresses that might pass as pretty and maybe even appealing to anyone past the age of 30 but that’s where it stops or maybe this is the invitation for ladies of certain size to enter the world of Valentino The whole mish mash sort of makes me think of Chico’s gone mad  and some generic department store private label collection. 
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On the positive side the funereal and monastic aspect of the collection has bitten the dust... okay that’s that!
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I’m not sure how a heritage brand like this suddenly does such an about face and hopes for positive results. Odd clothes at best with tanks over racer backs flowing and hanging off the body. Exaggerated and floating patch bellows pockets and odd leather moto jackets and vests are not exactly Valentino territory. Again, someone smarter than I will have to explain this to me as I am a bit at sea trying to figure this out.