Chanel pre-fall 2016 Métiers d’Art Collection

Or maybe we should begin with the little-known fact that Coco Chanel designed for the incredible, classy ’50s actresses Jeanne Moreau, Anouk Aimée, Monica Vitti, and Romy Schneider, all of whom starred in Italian movies by Visconti and Pasolini wearing her clothes. These threads, elusively woven together like the silvery strands glinting in the tweeds and embroideries today, were the connecting idea behind the whole collection.  

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This from a  so called fashion critic who needs a history lesson since lumping all those actresses into 50s actresses is grossly inaccurate but aside from that…… this one needs to just speak to the topic of fashion and not tell a freakin fairy tale. It’s like STFU and do your job! And why on earth would you leave out Anna Magnani and Sophia Loren as reference points?? huh??

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There is no mistaking that the styling echoes the Italian screen stars of the past and the best part is that it works so well. The models look a bit slutty which was emblematic of the times and even the clothes look a bit... shall we say... Obvious at times but IT WORKS! Don’t think that there isn’t a goodly amount of chic amongst those who have that just laid look.

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As I have said a thousand times when it comes to Chanel, there is so much tossed at you that there is no reason to critique the collections anymore. There are so so Chanel pieces, there are the over the top pieces, there are clunkers that hit as hard as an elephant falling off a ladder but all in all it always comes back to the fact that Karl gives his clients something to lust for every season.

 

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People can say he is just going through the motions but with this collection, he flexes those Chanel muscles and shows the world what it takes to be a world class “creative director” or designer or styliste! Karl gives you shoes, handbags, jewelry, hose and just about every Chanelism there is and that is why the brand is so wildly accepted, revered and successful. Karl is not only the so called creative director but he is a merchant and he is smart enough to surround himself with people who understand that you gotta sell clothes and not espouse your high minded bull because that aint gonna sell clothes ... and he doesn't piss and moan about how hard he works!

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The métiers collection brilliantly shows off the capabilities and wonders of the workrooms that can only be rivaled by the ateliers at Dior. This is a collection that is one step ... well, maybe a few steps ... short of haute couture but make no mistake this is a collection that comes with a heftier price tag than any of the other so called ready to wear collections. Bottom line… who cares …  fabulous speaks louder than blah blah blah and how refreshing  that Karl has not resorted to the me too of the so called modern fashion trend of spartan and minimal ... more is better at Chanel and as I have always said.. He laughs at them all!

meet Fabio Salini .. master jeweler

In 1964 Barbra Streisand sang” when in Rome I do as the Romans do!” Maybe these lyrics were the precursor of what developed some 30 years later; I speak of master jeweler and craftsman Fabio Salini. I am guessing my audience has not heard of Signor Salini but then that’s why you have me. Fabio Salini is, quite simply put, is one of the great “masters” of 21^st century fine jewelry.

What brought the brand and the artist to my attention was reading about his collaboration with Fernando and Humberto Campana which yielded a mere 8 pieces after 8 months of arduous, painstaking and meticulous labor. The project incorporated indigenous materials, such as bamboo and straw, combining them with diamonds, other precious stones with 18k gold and resulting in what can only be termed the haute couture of fine jewelry…or an alta gioielli, if you will! Every piece possesses the ability to render its viewer slack jawed.

Just so you don’t think that Fabio Salini is a “Johnny One Note” you can witness that his training at Cartier and Bulgari served him well by providing him with the tools he needed to stretch and broaden the breadth of his imagination and collections. I read once that Alexander McQueen was quoted as saying” in order to break the rules,  you need to learn them first” and that clearly applies here as Signor Salini took his classical training and converted it into the unconventional but exquisite pieces that became his signature.

The jewels of Fabio Salini include the imaginative as well as more classical pieces. For me the true beauty of owning a piece of Salini is to own those which exemplify the spirit of the designer, meaning the more unusual and controversial. Combining silk cord and diamonds or stingray and gemstones are only a few of the unimaginable combinations as well as the aforementioned bamboo etc. Those are, after all, the pieces that brought him to international fame among those who know of what they speak.

So back to the beginning, “when in Rome…” make it a point to visit the “Atelier” Fabio Salini on via di Monserrato and report back to me with your findings. Or just let me know what you think of these rare and fine beauties…..

Ciao a tutti!!