NYFW Spring 2018.. the caboose goes off the rails

YES YOU KNOW WHO THIS IS!!!

click image to enlarge

In a case how long is your tongue …… One of “our” so called fashion pundits/authorities said in so many words that … this is what the season needed… these are the clothes that will fly off the rack!!  maybe she saw a different show

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

the exact quote is as follows... The result was a collection of clothes that screamed fashion. Some should thrive* on the selling floor (cardigans, coats); some cry out for intelligent merchandising Here is my conundrum… I want to know in what store, in what universe and can I please get a video of any sale that is made from this collection… other than accessories.

click image to enlarge

LOVE THE TURBANS AND HEAD WRAPS ... 

click image to enlarge

*thrive like mold in a shower

 

Delpozo NYFW Spring 2018.. a stand alone collection

What can possibly be said about this collection especially after what seemed like an endless parade of clothes of the been there done that variety and then the trying to outdo and out trend anyone ilk? As I have said before Delpozo is the successful marriage of art and fashion that elevates the art and craft of fashion as well as the memory of its namesake designer. 

click image to enlarge

Josep Font is blessed with an amazing archive and DNA that he speaks to and from season after season. That edge, that hardness played against softness, the construction, fabrications, color palettes, signature silhouettes and more are what provides fashion with a heavy dose of exactly that … fashion with a capital F and yes designing, yes creativity and lastly paying homage to the designer’s name on the door. 

click image to enlarge

The collection is not for everyone and surely not appealing on anywhere near a mass level but for those of us who understand, have a history and love of the business of fashion this is a collection that makes 99% of NYFW pale by comparison. Font unknowingly created some of the trends we have seen hour after hour for the last week or so … it is just that he does it better and with far more distinction and he did it first. Imagine…. not a jogging pant, bomber, hoodie, loose strap or trainers in sight and yet it was just glorious. 

click image to enlarge

Whether or not there is back story here is totally inconsequential and irrelevant since the clothes actually stand on their own.... some of them quite literally … but no matter as these are clothes for connoisseurs of fashion whether as spectator, retailer, collector or client. Who else holds up that mantle in today’s souk that we call fashion?  

click image to enlarge

Let the images speak for themselves here and in actuality let them scream that this is what fashion is supposed to be all about! 

click image to enlarge

Badgley Mischka NYFW Spring 2018

Buried within the freak show and swamp that has become NYFW is another brand that seems to have outlived the ones who are now drowning in hype and praying for their celebrity Instagram moment. Some will say oh it and Jeffrey are so old fashioned, so irrelevant and so tone deaf to the times, but I say … gee…  I remember beautiful clothes, pretty clothes, feminine clothes and clothes that actually have appeal on a hanger or on a body. Clothes that actually sell!

click image to enlarge

These are the clothes that require no bullshit background stories, no pretense,  nor any hyper faux intelligent inspirations and babbling. If you take away the moniker they are the clothes that so many brands within this orbit of fashion have abandoned in search of that millennial non-existent customer base. Their longevity speaks to their ability to actually sell, actually be worn and speak to the women of any age who understand elegance and class not KLASS.

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

The collection hits whatever has been the trend path of the season and yet there is no visible panty, nipple or transparency in sight. Imagine having the audacity to believe in yourself and offer clothes to those clients that you have assiduously catered to over the years. 

click image to enlarge

I tip my hat to them and say shame on you fashion media for barely paying suitable or sufficient homage to such a brand and their designers! 

click image to enlarge

PS ... those oversized flowers ….  Not such a great idea!

NYFW Spring 2018 the stalwarts of 7th Avenue

Herrera and de la Renta are 2 names that have been around for decades. They are stalwarts and foundation for NYFW. Oscar retained his stewardship for 90% of his brand existence during his prodigious career.  Carolina, once known as “our lady of the sleeves” has and is still at the helm but both brands have been dipping their toes into the world of fashion as it exists in the 21^st century. 

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

Oscar De la Renta in its current incarnation led by the Monse team has taken a more drastic approach to the brand’s newly forming identity. For me they are most successful when they stick closer to the brand’s DNA rather than veering off on the tangents of denim, tee shirts and excessive transparency. With that said Spring 2018, this team to still testing the waters in day looks but when they get to gowns and dressy clothes, the ghost of Oscar makes its presence known with more convincing and very appealing results. Everyone strives for that younger and possibly millennial client but few grasp that in actuality they don’t give a crap about these labels unless it is a jean brand or an it bag. Anyone with some fashion wisdom and some current smarts will testify that the current generation is much more concerned with their iPhone than they are with looking tasteful and chic.

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

Carolina Herrera has had a succession of changes in her design rooms which have yielded some rather erratic and less than adequate results. Apparently there is this process by which they either toss out last year’s client in search of a new one or just totally obliterate any history of the brand whatsoever. The clothes always look to be impeccably made but the question is who and where are women of ANY age wearing these frocks. So, with all this said, every season is somewhat of a surprise in terms of what is presented. There are always a few pieces that stand out and this season is no different. Gone are the days when designers actually presented exquisitely rendered collections in total. We have become a pick and choose world sort of like a fast food buffet. 

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

These 2 brands demonstrate the conundrum of fashion when it comes to heritage brands. How to evolve? How to stay in the game? How not to look dated? Is there a formula? My comments are merely observations laced with opinion….  You can decide to agree or disagree or agree to disagree!

click image to enlarge