DELPOZO SPRING 2019

Well, this is certainly not at all what I was expecting from Josep Font and yet there is something that appeals to me on an alien level ... alien because generally I am not a lover of many of these silhouettes but someway somehow Font has created pieces so gossamer, so ethereal that they appear as almost weightless as if a cloud was enveloping the model.

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 What I took into account here is firstly, this is spring and if I had to hazard a guess, I’d say that Delpozo is much more of fall collection given its penchant for rigid lines, geometry and severe construction. Yes, some of it is evident here but it is those so soft pieces that intrigue me the most. 

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 I felt that many of the pant looks fell flat and that the orchid like head pieces were unnecessary as they were extremely distracting but what is so incredible is that there are so many wearable pieces here. For spring, the appeal is broadened especially with this new softness and the lack of usual esoteric design that the brand is so famous for. 

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 The georgettes seem to positively to float as well as this delicateness that comes across in so many pieces... I think what threw me off as well were some of the very heavy looking garnet pieces with sort of reptilian ruffles as well as the prints. I rarely associate prints when it comes to this brand. Another conundrum comes with the heavily brocaded and embellished pieces which looked more fall or holiday than spring yet embraced the Delpozo esthetic.

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 Given the seemingly never ending stream of clothes we have seen in less than 2 weeks, Delpozo still stands on its own. The quality is impeccable and whether or not ones likes the collection you must admit it is designed, it is true to itself and it surely is not chasing any trends.

Delpozo fall 2018

While this may not be my favorite collection that Josep Font has designed, what absolutely cannot be ignored or go unnoticed is the astoundingly impeccable execution of these clothes, the fabrications and in general the innovation that he employs season after season.

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This man is most definitely a designer’s designer… just look at the drape of the clothes and the fact that no matter if the fabrication is chiffon or plush; there is this incredible lightness that these clothes exude. For me the clothes are a tad too artsy this season but again when 

 I looked at the color blocking and its execution, the three plush pieces which look as if they could float, I am convinced that there is so much more to fashion beyond the obvious.

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The clothes this season appear to be softer, not as rigid, Cardin-esque or constructed as usual but again this man understands the power of color and subtlety. No, I am not a fan of the floral inspired belts but I can look past them to see what they encircle…. exquisite jackets and dresses that raise the bar about as high as it can go. These are no design school projects gone awry but these are Font’s vision, his expression or if you will his artistry for the brand.

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As has been said here before, these are not clothes for everyone but they are clothes to be worn and owned only by those who can appreciate the labors that are inherent in each piece. The clothes are wildly feminine and in some strange way very gamine.

PS..ATTENTION FAUX FLOTUS.....  those belts will crush your uniboob

Delpozo NYFW Spring 2018.. a stand alone collection

What can possibly be said about this collection especially after what seemed like an endless parade of clothes of the been there done that variety and then the trying to outdo and out trend anyone ilk? As I have said before Delpozo is the successful marriage of art and fashion that elevates the art and craft of fashion as well as the memory of its namesake designer. 

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Josep Font is blessed with an amazing archive and DNA that he speaks to and from season after season. That edge, that hardness played against softness, the construction, fabrications, color palettes, signature silhouettes and more are what provides fashion with a heavy dose of exactly that … fashion with a capital F and yes designing, yes creativity and lastly paying homage to the designer’s name on the door. 

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The collection is not for everyone and surely not appealing on anywhere near a mass level but for those of us who understand, have a history and love of the business of fashion this is a collection that makes 99% of NYFW pale by comparison. Font unknowingly created some of the trends we have seen hour after hour for the last week or so … it is just that he does it better and with far more distinction and he did it first. Imagine…. not a jogging pant, bomber, hoodie, loose strap or trainers in sight and yet it was just glorious. 

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Whether or not there is back story here is totally inconsequential and irrelevant since the clothes actually stand on their own.... some of them quite literally … but no matter as these are clothes for connoisseurs of fashion whether as spectator, retailer, collector or client. Who else holds up that mantle in today’s souk that we call fashion?  

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Let the images speak for themselves here and in actuality let them scream that this is what fashion is supposed to be all about! 

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Delpozo .. resort 2018

It feels odd to say that this collection is amazingly so wonderful and appealing ... It’s not wonderful because it has universal appeal nor is it wonderful because it is perfect in every way … BUT ... it is so so so Delpozo ... so distinctive … so true to itself. The brand stands alone as would a red dress  floating in an ocean of whipped cream. It is the combination of razor sharp edges mixed with the most “flou” of languid georgette and sometimes even within the same style. Even the palette is a clash of the classic played against “of the moment” brights.

 

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This is fashion as I believe it should  and can be when handled with a discerning eye, a well-focused vision of a designer who possesses the skillset of a master ... it is an evolution... a massage and a manipulation of the brand’s signatures. In today’s world of so called fashion most designers seem to be looking for a new customer base each season... one season it is all loose and mid-calf... one season all prints and pastels... another season it's all skintight and impossibly short… you get the idea  but here is a designer, Josep Font,  that is consistent in his vision and how he proposes each season in an ongoing process of development. Can you name 3 other designer brands that can make that claim other than maybe Ralph Lauren? 

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It is clothes like these that stimulate,  enervate and give faith and hope  to a business that seems to have lost its way with a lot of very misguided help and advice from those who should stick to what they know and not wield their power to inadvertently destroy and eviscerate a brand, a designer or a business!! Rant over

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The photos speak for themselves albeit not as loudly as the garments do in person. If I was looking for a deficit here it would be that the collection might have been shown on models that looked to be more than just sweet 16. One can only imagine the chic of it all if presented on a more grownup type!.. And yet despite this, the clothes remain exquisite by most standards unless of course you just can’t see beyond the surface!