Showing posts with label resort 2018. Show all posts
Showing posts with label resort 2018. Show all posts

Thursday, June 15, 2017

Delpozo .. resort 2018



It feels odd to say that this collection is amazingly so wonderful and appealing ... It’s not wonderful because it has universal appeal nor is it wonderful because it is perfect in every way … BUT ... it is so so so Delpozo ... so distinctive … so true to itself. The brand stands alone as would a red dress  floating in an ocean of whipped cream. It is the combination of razor sharp edges mixed with the most “flou” of languid georgette and sometimes even within the same style. Even the palette is a clash of the classic played against “of the moment” brights.
 
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This is fashion as I believe it should  and can be when handled with a discerning eye, a well-focused vision of a designer who possesses the skillset of a master ... it is an evolution... a massage and a manipulation of the brand’s signatures. In today’s world of so called fashion most designers seem to be looking for a new customer base each season... one season it is all loose and mid-calf... one season all prints and pastels... another season it's all skintight and impossibly short… you get the idea  but here is a designer, Josep Font,  that is consistent in his vision and how he proposes each season in an ongoing process of development. Can you name 3 other designer brands that can make that claim other than maybe Ralph Lauren? 
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It is clothes like these that stimulate,  enervate and give faith and hope  to a business that seems to have lost its way with a lot of very misguided help and advice from those who should stick to what they know and not wield their power to inadvertently destroy and eviscerate a brand, a designer or a business!! Rant over
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The photos speak for themselves albeit not as loudly as the garments do in person. If I was looking for a deficit here it would be that the collection might have been shown on models that looked to be more than just sweet 16. One can only imagine the chic of it all if presented on a more grownup type!.. And yet despite this, the clothes remain exquisite by most standards unless of course you just can’t see beyond the surface!

Thursday, June 8, 2017

Thom Browne .. resort 2018



Well this is not about “salability or wearability” … this is about the art and craft of fashion and then the other components come in to play after that. Thom Browne has become an incredible fascination for me in terms of creativity, craftsmanship and vision. These are most definitely the clothes of connoisseurs and collectors... they are not soccer mom clothes or what you throw on to run to the supermarket or to pick up the dry cleaning. These are statement clothes and they do just that but there is also the brilliance of Thom Browne that is also about a basic jacket, reefer, shirt or pant that is superbly tailored with the cleanest of line. 
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To my eye, this collection is a bit more trend bending than usual as I  see nods to Chanel and Gucci  but then again all is forgiven when the outcome is so perfectly manipulated to his own vision of trends that pervade runways. He is the master tailor, he is undoubtedly and unquestionably the Steven Hawking of trompe l’oeil… mind boggling if not staggering. With all of this said, Browne also manages to take a nod to the classic resort collections of times gone by with his red white and blue, his pastels and his tennis whites. The man manages to interpret and massage his message season after season. Another aspect that cannot and should not be ignored is that the designer has a sense of humor which is evident each season .. See dachshund bag!!!
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A stellar moment occurs when he channels Toni Frissell’s image of Anne Bonofoey Taylor on the ski slopes. I know,  I know you don’t know either of those names but then that’s what Google is for or possibly even a Book !! Imagine the possibilities of curiosity!!!
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Tuesday, May 30, 2017

GUCCI goes Rollerina for resort 2018



 Logo mania… the capricious cacophonous cavalcade of ugly rags and I dare say one of the ugliest and unsightly collections to come along this side of the millennium... Apparently there is no designer that Michele finds out of bounds when it comes to knocking off as this season he managed to even knock off Mikli eyewear … astounding. 
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CAUTION... click on  image to enlarge


Prints and glitz are supposed to deflect from the actual ugliness and clumsiness of this parade ... it is rather Trumpian in ways that distract you with the unappealing, eye popping and hideous clothes that look as if he and minions reached into some grab bag of scraps and piled them on to become Resort 2018 … it defies imagination, let alone offends and assaults the eye, with the absence of any taste …. 
CAUTION... click on  image to enlarge

CAUTION... click on  image to enlarge
  
These are get ups/costumes ….delivered straight off the clown caravan to where he decides to stage his seasonal attention grabbing extravaganzas. This excuse for a designer seems to believe this is fashion and worse yet is that he has beaten this horse too many times and now he is beating it post mortem.  BTW... Rollerina did the look  first and best!
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Go ahead … laud him … applaud him…. because I’d rather die in rags than be caught dead in crap like this. As for the men’s ... or whatever gender that was supposed to appeal to ... have at it … fashion victims of the world unite!

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Valentino ... resort 2018



Let’s start out on a few positive notes ... nothing really to do with the clothes actually … it was colorful! And the models didn’t look like they were the walking dead…

Now, let’s get down to business…… HIP HOP!!! Really???  C’mon … as if this hasn’t been beaten to death now for ages. Tracksuits… it’s Valentino Guccified! or even worse Kanye'd. How sad. Fur flip flops?? 
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Any hope of recapturing the roots, taste level and allure of the heritage brand is long gone along anything that might be confused with chic or urbane. Yes, you can be sure that the clothes are wildly expensive and very well made but alas who cares? 
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As if this wasn’t all bad enough did I not detect some takes on deconstruction ala Margiela?  Did I not detect some gowns and dresses that looked like some very old Louis Féraud? Then of course there were the signature monastic looks and a few very over the top over simplified black gowns toward the end. The winner was a hot pink velvet sliver of a gown mixed in.
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I can say there were some of the most unattractive clothes I have seen in a while... many of them being lace confections and I believe one of them to be lace, charmeuse and mink all rolled into some kind of demented cheerleader costume in emerald green … then there was a whiff of Frida Kahlo in there but god only knows why.
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What else is there to say other than why on earth would anyone design or opt to knock off or rift on  what has been done over and over again? The horse died of a brutal beating a long time ago!
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