Showing posts with label sterling silver. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sterling silver. Show all posts

Monday, August 4, 2014

meet Marcus Teo.. creative director Georg Jensen



Once upon a time Georg Jensen was known as the ultimate resource for modern contemporary sterling silver jewelry and home accessories. Into its second century of life, the company has decided to recapture the luster of what once was with the hiring of David Chu as CEO and now with the addition of Marcus Teo.  The globetrotting  Marcus Teo is the subject of today’s meet and greet and he has been extremely forthcoming via the series of question posed to him. He tells us of what we can expect from him in the future and some of his past and some of his private life.
First is the press release announcing his arrival to the fabled brand which is sort of a mission statement  and then we get to know him in deeper detail, the slideshow offers a small glimpse in to his past  and what makes him tick as a creative force in fashion.
Please meet Marcus Teo..


Marcus Teo Joining Georg Jenson
American 
Vogue contributing sittings editor and prior editor of W magazine’s men’s portfolio, Marcus Teo will collaborate with David Chu, Georg Jensen’s chief executive officer and chief creative officer, to launch a men’s jewellery and watch collection. He will take on the title of vice president and creative director. “I’ll be working on all aspects of creative,” Teo told press. He will continue in his freelance role at American Vogue, as “it keeps my interest and inspiration going,” he said. The Collaboration is not to only to introduce a men’s collection (not only jewelry but leather goods, accessories etc.) but to shine the spotlight on all Jewelry, Home, Silverware and the hallowed Holloware collection

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Q-What is your big picture plan for Georg Jensen? And who are you targeting as your customer?
The House of Georg Jensen is a House of Art & Design. It is not only a store for beautiful jewelry, or a purveyor of fine home décor or a gallery of collectible silver. It is all that as well as an active participant in the vital and vibrant world of Art and Design. Georg Jensen himself was an artist; a sculptor who was also a great silversmith. Back in 1904, before artists even thought of collaborations, Jensen invited his artist friends to design and he turned their work into masterpieces. It was the beginning of a fruitful practice. This became the Georg Jensen tradition, working with artists through every Design Period, from Art Nouveau to Art Deco, through the Danish golden age of design during the mid-century. All the way through the 70s, 80s and now. The tradition continues with some of the world’s best Design powerhouses. My big picture is to continue this tradition of collaboration – to shed light on the rich heritage and also to create a constant and current dialogue with the Art and Design world.
The Jensen customer has always been someone who appreciates art and craft, who values the beauty of design and creation. Our jewelry customer knows that they are investing in wearable art and our Home and Silver customers are welcoming art into their homes. My target is to extend our culture of value in art and design to the vast demographic that appreciates design. Through social media like Pinterest and various blogs, the design aficionados have grown in huge numbers. I want them to be participants in the Georg Jensen culture – as both customers and collaborators.

Q-Do you believe that Georg Jensen can be restored to its once reverential status among international luxury retailers? And why?
A little dusting can uncover huge treasure troves. Our archives hold some of the giants in Design and art. We have produced and created some of the most reverential pieces as well as the most modern objects of their time. Living in an age where the Design periods co-exist seamlessly, our vast trove of goods have become modern collector’s gold. My task is to reintroduce these vibrant items of jewelry and Home design goods as well as our Silver treasures. In addition, we continue the ongoing conversation as we collaborate with the design powerhouses of now. In this two prong approach, we speak to international luxury retailers with our desirable goods as well as create a modern dialogue with a new and growing luxury-appreciating audience.


Q- What was your most favorite assignment during your career and why?
There have been so many! One that had left a lasting impression was my very first shoot as the Fashion Director of W Magazine’s Men’s portfolio. Dennis Freedman had commissioned fine art photographer Rodney Smith to shoot for us. I was doing my first sitting – shooting at Parc de Sceaux a little south of Paris. The handsome clothes, the great models, the almost mathematical structure of the park – all came together with precision through Rodney’s lens. The moment when all the effort and work behind the scenes culminate on one perfect photo, that is the moment I pine for. When it happens as it did for the first time on this shoot, everything is as it should be.


Q- What are your current observations about fashion? men’s .. women’s??
I have always been interested in Fashion, but by way of Film School. My appreciation has been for the craft of making clothes and the effect it creates, like what costume does in movies and theatre. It creates characters. Fashion is interesting to me because men and women become characters when they put clothes on. I have been an accidental tourist in the rise of menswear because of W’s Men’s Portfolio. I was interested in fashion but I was more interested in creating a general interest book. Art, Design, Sport, the Lives of others – that’s what I am interested in. Currently in fashion, I applaud the drive that the young designers still have in making it. The world of fashion has made more friends and fans in the last 10 years. It used to be so far removed. But, it has also become ore competitive and big business. For every Nicholas Ghesquiere or Alexander Wang out there making it, there’s a lot more struggling to get their amazing collections out. I think I am a fan of the designers. I think it takes guts to put yourself in this arena. Obviously, there are good collections and bad ones. There always have been.
It is comforting to know that Zoran is out there somewhere not giving a hoot about how commercial he could have been but sticking to his instincts.


Q- Can you explain what a sittings editor does and as a stylist how much of the finished product are you responsible for?
I studied Film.  That is a highly collaborative field. It takes the sum of different parts to make the perfect image. In portraiture and fashion photography, one is always trying to achieve the perfect shot. This could be bringing out the personality in portraiture or creating the Decisive or Indecisive moment. A great sittings editor pulls together the different elements – the right clothes, the models, the subjects, the location, the time of day and collaborates closely with the Photographer – who is the Director and who is the Cinematographer? The roles vary with the Photographer. I always go in excited to collaborate, to work with a few to create the image. When it all falls in place, my job as a sittings editor is done. My role as a stylist uses Fashion and costume to elicit an emotion, to tell a story. Depending on the day and the photographer, I have been surprised and moved to tears. On other days, I have to take control of the situation and act as a director. The point is to stay collaborative. I am Always responsible for my finished product!
Q-Who are your style icons/idols/inspirations and why?
On a personal style level, Bryan Ferry and Michael Chow. Look at Bryan Ferry! Rock Star with sartorial tendencies. Never the pretty boy but always a chic Man. Michael Chow is an icon of Food, Art and Design. A quick study into his esthetic life will reveal the most sublime choices. And Never Boring. Always keep it interesting. A couple of years ago, I did a Mr. Chow inspired story for GQ. I had permission and was shooting in his restaurant. He was in the neigbourhood and decided to drop by. While my model was evocating Chow’s sharply-dressed persona, the real Mr. Chow showed up in black t-shirt, light linen shorts, black socks and black canvas sneakers – the antithesis of dressed up but startlingly perfect.

Q-What advice would you offer to those who are just starting their career in the fashion business?
Absorb Culture. Study Sociology. Devour History. Learn about Design. In fact, study anything but fashion. Unless you are planning to be a designer, then make sure you learn the craft.
Q- Where is your ideal home and why?
Everywhere I have lived seems to lead the way to the ideal home. From the Colonial home in Malaysia to the Corbusier shrine in London to my own undertakings in New York City. They all contain traces of the past and also elements of where they are. I am quite adaptable but I cannot wait to adapt to a house near water. The Ocean or a Lake is what I find rapturous.
Q-what is your most treasured possession in terms of wardrobe?
A pair of Helmut Lang jeans that was given to me by Helmut. It has gone through several Weights of me!
Q-if you could rewrite your own history, how would you alter it and why?
I wouldn’t. I have lived in 3 continents and have learnt so much. If I was wiser back then, I still would have been learning something during that time.
I suppose I would be a tad taller if I could rewrite something!

Monday, March 10, 2014

Robert Lee Morris .. a living legend of fashion



ac·ces·so·ry  …….noun \ik-ˈse-sə-rē, ak-, ek-, -ˈses-rē, also ə-ˈse-\
: something added to something else to make it more useful, attractive, or effective
art by Mahyar Kalantari



Apparently Robert Lee Morris has defied the dictionary definition of what constitutes an accessory. Mr. Morris is perhaps a pioneer or maybe the founding father of what has become an enormous and integral part of the fashion business on an international stage…. 



Once considered “bridge jewelry” or semi-precious, he single handedly elevated its status by showing the world that sterling silver jewelry could stand on its own as a category and not just as a means of enhancing apparel or as a sub category to fashion jewelry. His enduring career was solidified in 1978 when he opened Artwear in Soho and has remained a timeless presence in the world of jewelry and accessories ever since.



During his illustrious career he has contributed to the collections of Kansai Yamamoto, Calvin Klein, Anne Klein, Karl Lagerfeld, Michael Kors, the Olsens and Donna Karan. Most notably is his long lasting collaboration with Ms. Karan.
In my opinion Robert Lee Morris is a living legend of the fashion business and it is my pleasure to have had the opportunity to “get inside” his head. One more in my series of meet and greet sessions with great personalities who dwell in the world of fashion.

1-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?
Most treasured possession in my wardrobe: my oversized down coat from Donna Karan’s men’s line from years ago. It is the best winter coat ever.

2-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?
My most sterling trait from myself and in my friendships is the ability to become a light of inspiration and love to whoever is around me.

3-What is your bliss?
My bliss is my work, my “job” of designing and making with my own hands, jewelry that comes to me in clear visions out of the blue.

4-What is your guilty secret?
My guilty secret is a passion for Cronuts.

5-Where is your ideal home?
My ideal home would be on the edge of the cliffs overlooking Chama River and facing Ghost Ranch in Abiquiu New Mexico.

6-If you could not be a designer/retailer/etc.: what would you be
If I could not be a designer, I would be a writer.

7-What is on your bedside table right now?
On my bedside table right now is a cluster of crystals. The Convoluted Universe by Dolores Cannon

8-What do you wear to bed?
I wear nothing to bed. I strangle myself in p.js undies or t-shirts.

9-What if any, book are you reading now or last read?
I am reading, feverishly, the amazing The Convoluted Universe by Dolores Cannon

10-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”
My advice to any “newcomer” is to research deeply the field of fashion you are interested to grow into. Know what has been done before to avoid unintentional plagiarism.

11-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?
My style Icon, source of masculine inspiration is Paul Bettany.

12-What is the best advice you ever received?
The best advice I ever received was from my original art dealer who told me to use my whole name (including the Lee) as my brand name. There already existed a famous Robert Morris artist when I entered my career in NY.

13-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.
The current state of fashion is MULTIDIMENSIONAL

14-If you were a retailer; would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store? Or where would you shop?
If I were a retailer and I am, I would and do wear my own men’s jewelry.

15-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?
With a $200,000 lottery prize I would buy gold coins and put them in a small treasure box so I could run my fingers thru the coins every day. Like Uncle Scrooge.

16-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?
I would invite the following people to dinner Oscar Wilde, Picasso, Jennifer Lawrence and Ru Paul.

 17-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?
My favorite movie star is Cate Blanchett, and my favorite movie is Lord of the Rings.

 18-What is the one thing you would change about yourself?
The one thing I would change about myself is my attitude about exercise…I would begin to do it.

19-Whose opinion do you value most and why?
I value my wife’s opinion above everyone else’s. She has an uncanny knowing…

20-What store or which designer do you most like to shop in or wear?
My favorite store to shop is Uni-Qlo

21-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?
I read nearly all my books digitally on my iPad or laptop, but not magazines. I enjoy the physical appeal of them.

22-Do you have a dream collaborator?
My dream collaborator is Donna Karan…dreams come true.

23-What is your crowning achievement thus far in your career?
My crowning glory achievement thus far in my career was the being awarded The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement award in 2007, my third CFDA award...

24-What’s your music library like?
My music library is heavily new age, meditation, exotic world music. I don't listen to much POP but certain massively  successful pop bands like Imagine Dragons, Dark heavy masculine sounds, emotional sounds like Staind, Depeche Mode, , joyful new age mixes like Alcyon Massive, Balligomingo, Lourde, or mournful soul of Band of Horses, but little of Beyoncé, Dr. Dre, JayZ, Rhianna, anything having to do with Kim Kardashian's world..., 

25-What and where is your favorite meal?
My favorite meal is Feijoada Completa, black rice and beans, with smoked and exotic Brazilian meats, with the odd white toasted flour called Farofa that you sprinkle on like sawdust...its hauntingly delicious and the mainstay of Brazil
 I went to high school in Rio and was served the best Feijoada, always accompanied with a cold Guarana' over ice.
The Filet Mignon was always called an "alto" because of the extreme highest of the filet as it stood on your plate, medium rare from Argentina....only in Brazil can you find these magical carnivorous restaurants called Brazilian steakhouses, Churascurias...a most distinctive flavor only found in Rio.

Monday, November 18, 2013

Harbingers of Design .. Spinelli Kilcollin


 

This series will spotlight global innovators who are original, known, lesser known and some perchance even already highly regarded and respected within their areas of expertise.  The common thread is style and fashion; whether it takes its form in interiors, apparel, accessories, retail, photography or any of the related professions that surround fashion and style.  Please note that some of my “cast members” have chosen to follow a path than includes utilizing the “tools” of the past thereby rendering a new and modern vision for today’s climate of fashion and style. These “createurs” are at the vanguard of design and style … in my opinion … and so I will introduce them to you on an international stage starting today.

 

 

Today it is all about jewelry; jewelry for men and women and jewelry that would be termed both bridge and fine. The team of Yves Spinelli and Dwyer Kilcollin deliver jewelry for the 21st century that is both modern and time treasured which will become the heirlooms of the next generation. The materials of choice here are sterling silver, 18k gold and pearls which add up to a recipe from the classics and yet their pieces are unquestionably thoroughly modern.

 

They began in 2009 with pearls and beads and worked them in tandem with leather/fabric wrapping which slowly evolved into the sterling stage and has now taken them in the precious world of 18k gold and diamonds. What is so intriguing about the jewelry is that their signature piece, which I will call the stackable collapsible ring, can be for the man or woman in your life. Depending on how it is rendered, with diamonds or in sterling or in sterling with 18k, the ring is asexual. By the way, this piece is a personal favorite! One more variable is depending on the amount of “rings.” It might also convert to a bracelet.

 

Be on the lookout for more diamonds, South Sea pearls, precious stones and an expansion of their signatures including a much larger selection of earrings and a greater variety in the colors/finishes of gold and diamonds. Within the last month or so they have been featured in ELLE and VOGUE, they are indeed on the ascent!
 

Special thanks to the designers of LOYD+FORD for introducing me to these latest additions to world of fine jewelry.

Could this new a new trilogy or trinity ring? Just saying.
www.spinellikilcollin.com