FALL 2010 MILAN ---MOSCHINO, BOTTEGA, PUCCI

MOSCHINO
The latest collection took me back to when Franco Moschino was still designing the collection. This has all the traces of the late designer including the sense of humor that he was so famous for during his tenure. The clothes are distinctly Moschino with trademark touches as well as shapes. This turns out to be one of the few winners in Milan.
BOTTEGA VENETA
While I am not usually a big fan of these clothes, I found this collection to be far more appealing on many levels..........well one in particular.........it might just sell at retail. There was the tailored and fitted part and the looser and drapier part which for a change looked season appropriate.
PUCCI
Well from a society matrons dream to a hot mama's must have, Pucci has taken the trip to the other side. The prints were brooding, the shapes tight and dangerously short but it all made sense in the newest incarnation of this classic name.

MILAN FALL 2010-- BLUMARINE

If I had to pick a show that brought back the memories of what fun it used to be to go to shows and to anxiously wait for your writing appointment than I would have to choose this collection above all. Blumarine may not be every one's taste but these frocks sure do make you smile. In a season where everyone has gone their own way into the future, Blumarine stays its course as on the resources that you can depend on for consistency in vibe and presentation ...................and when so many others seem to be in search of a future Blumarine just forges ahead...........head and shoulders above so many in Milan.

MILAN FALL 2010..FERRE, D SQUARED, VERSACE

FERRE
There is something about the clothes that these 2 present for Ferre that just dont come across properly. I am sure that they start out with the best intentions but somewhere along the line the runway presentation suffers. Mr. Ferre's clothes were so precise--so razor sharp--so chic and the newest incarnation looks like they have been worn or need to properly fitted or need a pressing..............whatever the issue if they just don't hit the same note that the original did so either the new team has to completely steer clear of the old Ferre or get it together and do it right.
D SQUARED
These 2 jokers are very confused about the business of selling clothes. Each season they seem to seek out another audience and each season they neglect to realize that their clothes are wildly expensive and have very little cache for the retail customer who can afford them. The Catens seem to think they are doing a reality TV show except there is nothing exceptional about them or the clothes. I suppose whomever is funding this fiasco will eventually cash out before the losses become too great.
VERSACE
While I was holding out for a knock out Fall, I was sorely disappointed by what I saw as a lot of over worked and over designed pieces. There were moments when Donatella's talents shone through but there were way too many gimmicks and "cuts" and "slices" as to totally distract from the garment itself.

SJP...............THE SAGA CONTINUES

http://www.stylelist.com/2010/02/26/sarah-jessica-parker-wears-a-victoria-beckham-dress-to-the-white-house/

Don't you think it would have been good form to wear a dress from the company where you are President and Creative Director

Milan fall 2010-PRADA, D&G, FENDI

PRADA
Upon reading Cathy Horyn's review last night, I was amazed to hear her say "it is almost as if Miuccia dares you to hate the clothes"................well you don't have to dare me. I thought the clothes were awful, ugly, cumbersome and brooding.
Usually I say that it is a good thing they are in the handbag and shoe businesses, but I am not so sure this time around. I will say that amongst so much unrealistic fashion there were a few pieces that did catch my eye which were the 2 black and jet beaded dress and coat.
D&G
These guys are really a good time. For the fall, they appear to have become a sort of Ralph Lauren on mind alterign substances. They took that snowflake, reindeer, Nordic sweater and beat it till it was dead and there were no more ways to interpret it. The odd thing is that no matter how over the top the presentation was ..........there were plenty of good salable pieces.
FENDI
what I am not quite sure about is that in a season where there seems to be a profusion of fur, why wasn't Karl more focused on that rather than the voluminous shapes he used for the ready to wear. At best, I find Fendi to be a bit of a push so this season is no different. There was, however, one high point which was the interpretation of the muckluck into a stylish laced boot.

LONDON FALL 2010

It is not very often that I am without an opinion or comment but I seem to be at a great loss to discuss the current showings in London. Each time that I began to watch a collection I was hoping for some of the rare talents that London has to offer. This time around I was dismayed to see so may collections that smarted of Alexander McQueen or maybe it was the almost unanimous use of digital prints that McQueen popularized during his past 2 collections. Then there were the case of what I can only say are not very pretty clothes...............even collections like ERDEM which I usually adore I found to be boring for one reason or another. So I will just post 5 selected shots from 5 collections and I leave it to you to decipher where they come from.

THE BLONDS

THANKS TO WAYNESCOT FOR THE SUGGESTION LUKAS....................................... http://qlixmag.com/2010/02/23/new-york-fashion-week-the-blonds-aw-2010/S