GUCCI pre fall 2018

And you thought the only laugh of the day was that Omarosa got the boot and that the only clown car was parked in front of 1600 …. Well that would be wrong as you will soon see!

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Not long ago, one of the big suits at Gucci was carrying on to WWD about how they really don’t sell logos and that it wasn’t a core of their business … and now you thought that the only one whose pants were on fire was that excuse for a leader in the oval office. Apparently the memo about logos never reached the so called designer who has assembled a souk of almost laughable looks that defy even a design school student’s imagination. 

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If I really had to sum it up quickly I think best said would be that the horse has been dead for a few seasons now and why are you still beating it? This is some excuse for a collection that uses the logo for everything except wallpaper and toilet paper which might be far better than a box pleated skirt or those ghastly funneled drawstring boots. One of my favorite looks was the Shirley Temple, you figure it out, and then the one with saggy tights and 3d glasses ala someone’s demented granny from the old country circa 1930. 

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Yes I actually did like something … there was one oversized quilted bag/tote in a sort of trapezoid shape that I found to be very tasty if you want big ass Gs’ emblazoned on your bag. After that, I must say I find nothing redeeming about this farce other than I guess accessories rule the day since the clothes are what thrift stores are made of.

Chanel Metiers d’Art .... Hamburg 2018

Grüße aus Hamburg

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 Let the fawning begin and bring out the smelling salts and the depends. The accolades are streaming in and yet I can’t seem to see the supposed fabulousness of this presentation. Yes the purpose is to display the work produced by the Chanel-owned luxury artisan-specialist companies, Maison Michel (millinery), Barrie (Scottish cashmere), Goossens (jewelry), and Lesage (embroidery). Yes, mission accomplished, but the clothes certainly left a lot to be desired. This was commercial Karl just a more expensive version …. Well at least for the most part.

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The real star here was the tailoring which seemed uncharacteristically sharp/cleaner and offering a more defined silhouette to the suits, jackets and coats. Yes, this was Karl coming home to Hamburg and much has been made of the fact that Hamburg is a coastal /seafaring city hence the nautical influences. Even the fisherman (aran) sweaters took on a Chanel touch when paired with leggings, opaques and captain’s hats. I know, I know the cropped full legged sailor pant is an iffy situation at best but oh the jackets and the coats.

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The overall effect was sort of this Night Porter meets Coco meets Greenwich Village beatnik cool meets motorcycle mama meets "hey sailor.". The shoes were divine; the accessories bountiful, the bags ranged from the Chanel standard fare to the rather amusing accordion (concertina) but let’s go back to the hats which were part of every total look. As is always the case with any Chanel collection , there were the de rigeur Karl Klunkers and this collection was possibly more rife with them than usual. The dresses seemed oddly out of synch with the tone of the collection despite their over the top embellishments. They ranged from downright “you must be kidding me” to “well, if I must.” Don’t get me wrong there were a few looks that might even register as amazing.

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One of the things that struck me was there was an almost exact duplication of a suit from the 60s which was photographed on Romy Schneider and being fitted by Coco herself. Seemed odd since Karl has always massaged and manipulated the DNA but rarely if ever practically copied line for line let alone in  the same coloration. All in all, to me, this was really not much to write home about but then again it is still better than most of the flock’s best efforts. 

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meet Sean McNanney and get SAVED

Now that Black Friday and Cyber Monday have gleefully passed, let’s move on to the kind of items that never make it to the sale rack and scream I’m worth it!

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We are firmly entrenched in the season of giving which for some is a joy and others dread. Each year this seasonal ritual seems to arrive earlier and earlier and each year so many of us try to always “one up” last year’s gifting activities.  With that in mind, this year,  why not just skip all the in between gifts race directly to the top ... after all cream does rise to the top ... n’est-ce pas?

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All of us know that there are few “giftables” that can be considered luxurious, utilitarian and even possibly covetable. Most have realized that with the cold weather upon us that there is very little that can protect us or keep us warm once these winter temperatures have dropped. Now, I’m not talking about Heattech from Uniqlo or a down jacket from Canada Goose or even a Moncler puffer; I am talking about the ultimate luxury indulgence against the frosty climes … a cashmere throw to wrap yourself in whether indoors or out depending on your fashion savvy and skills. Well, actually not just cashmere but also alpaca and YAK………….. Yes YAK! (www.saved-ny.com )

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Enter Sean McNanney and SAVED. He brings a lot “to the table” that has previously only been dominated by the likes of Hermès and Pendleton and only one of them would be considered luxurious or the last word in living well.  Not only does SAVED NY offer a variety of luxe fabrications but they also offer you unique and rare patterns especially within this category.  Pendleton may offer you Navajo patterns or stripes and Hermès, well ... they throw an H at you but SAVED NY offers an incredible assortment of visual delights to choose from. Think of this brand as an ever changing smorgasbord rather than just a fixed menu of a meal.

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Take your pick; yes the de rigeur solids and the bordered styles, but also the maddening lushness of malachite and exotic maddered paisleys in addition to animal prints and classic menswear patternings.  If you do your homework you will realize there are few other brands,  if any,  who can offer this kind of spectacular and original assortment of designs.

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Jeffrey Felner: Can you give us a brief self-history? … Personal and professional, up until this point?

 Sean McNanney: I am a Brooklyn based artist and designer who most recently worked with Ralph Lauren Home. Drawing upon my background in textiles, and inspired by the traditions of Mongolian nomadic culture, I  created a collection of quality throws, pillows and blankets dedicated to providing luxurious warmth to the curated home. The SAVED collection brings old world traditions into the new with unique designs influenced by Victorian ephemera, French ironwork and early 20th century textiles. Each item is hand-crafted in fine, sustainably sourced Mongolian Yak Down, Cashmere and Camelhair. Designed to be loyal and lasting - A Warm Friend. 

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JF: What is your MO (modus operandi) when it comes to home fashion and why did you opt for luxe throws/coverlets/home accessories as the conveyance of “sending out your message?”

SM:  I wanted to create a line of quality home accessories, something that will be saved an heirloom in a day of throw away culture.  While working with craftsmen and herder working in traditional ways.

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JF; If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

SM: Hamish Bowles, would look forward to what he is wearing -Oprah Winfrey Just have to! -Amy Sedaris for the humor -Cathy Lee again for the humor -Jonathan Anderson (designer at Loewe) I really admire what he is doing in fashion 

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JF: What begs to be asked here is can you offer some insight into how you achieve what so few have been able to offer and that is the exquisite patternings?  Most popular?

SM: I’m a collector and constantly inspired by pattern, I enjoy telling a story that the viewer can feel they are a part of it or feel it’s familiar to them.   It’s hard to tell what is the most popular; people love the designs as much as the workmanship on the simpler pieces.

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JF: What is the big picture here; where to you see yourself as designer and brand in 5 years? Who is the SAVED client? Brand extensions?

SM: I do plan to continue with home accessories, down the road a line of fashion accessories (scarves, hats, gloves, etc.) and do home to have another store one day.

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JF: Lastly, let’s discuss how you wish to sell your product?

SM: We sell online at our site www.saved-ny.com along with several stores such as Barneys, KRB in NYC as well as Garde and Obsolete in LA

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