Saturday, September 8, 2018

In celebration of Ralph Lauren and 50 years of fashion




I am not sure I can possibly bring anything new to the conversation about Ralph Lauren. He has consistently delivered clothes for real people pinched with fantasy and aspiration. Last evening’s event is proof positive that fashion is not about reinventing the wheel or following the next trend but instead it is truly about great clothes, consistency and a point of view.
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge


Unquestionably he has the resources, the clout and finances to stage an extravaganza such as this but it’s the clothes! The clothes seen as a whole are … a universe… a look... a luxe and yet and every day kind of style that can be achieved by anyone of any generation.
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge


Lauren has the most incredibly brilliant styling and design studios that can turn the mundane into a fashion statement. Last night laid testament to all of that and more. Ralph Lauren is so much more than a brand as he has created a world of Ralph Lauren and it is a universal language spoken all over the world by consumers of every age.
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge
click image to enlarge


Trendoids, influencers and fashion victims will call it boring and tired but who else can boast half of a century of being in business and in these times not owned by some conglomerate who seeks hype more than style and fashion. Kudos to all concerned... past and present … as this is a brand literally for the ages that will have outlived most if not all of its competition if there is any
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

Friday, September 7, 2018

Jeremy Scott spring 2019


One might suppose that this collection is a political statement referring to the times we live in but then again you might think these are clothes from a time capsule , from a another decade of fashion or might just ask yourself WHY?
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge



Without pinpointing any of it, it's easy to say you just bundle up the pile and send it off to Forever 21 since I think it’s too comic strippy or Lichtensteinsque for the likes of Zara and H&M. Aint that a kick…. Zara and H&M are too upscale for clothes of this ilk.
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge


 Yes, yes there is the momentary Warholian polaroid thing which makes no sense but then again what sense does any of this make in terms of fashion. Clothes for the sake of clothes, for the sake of hype and the sake of a runway show that will be attended by wannabe fashion people and of course the INFLUENCERS! Someday someone will explain to me just how you acquire that moniker and what it actually means since the only thing I have figured is that they get free stuff for their Instagram selfies.
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

It’s clothes like this that add to NYFW’s waning reputation as a fashion capitol. Keep in mind who is buying this and where are they wearing it to?

Thursday, September 6, 2018

Tom Ford...... Spring 2019 NYFW


Instagrammers, Influencers, fawners, label whores, millennial know nothings and of course our beloved fashion so called media …. Was it as good as sex? If it was then god only knows you have never had good sex in your life. This was unquestionably a yawn worthy presentation of clothes… not fabulous clothes, not costumey clothes, not work clothes but just plain clothes. I guess there was or will be some blah blah blah and why most of the heads were wrapped tightly in scarves or was it the Tom Ford version of a hijab… actually who cares? 
click image to enlarge



Amazing to me that with the unlimited resources this man has at his fingertips and his penchant for either “borrowing” or showing trash and flash clothes, this season he chose to show one of the most coma inducing of collections. You know it’s like you nod out during a movie but wake up as if you missed nothing….tah dah!
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge



Croc jackets are nothing new and then there is the old standbys leopard and fringe which are used weakly. Nude and menopausal shades thereof are never quite right on anyone and other than those gowns where exactly are most of these clothes going to be worn. There are some passable plausible dresses and looks but surely nothing like the laudatory treatment that the collection will receive.
click image to enlarge



He did keep true to himself in the silhouette (trashy tight) which is fine but other than that was there anything on that runway that made you ooh or aaah or covet? If this is the best we have to start off NYFW then holy shit, what a month this is gonna be. 
click image to enlarge



By the way, what were those odd square things that appeared at the waists and bust lines of many pieces and one last thing when did velvet become a spring fabric and lastly, except for a few pieces would you ever know this was spring?
click image to enlarge



PS... Tom, no one needs another Temptations tuxedo?

Saturday, September 1, 2018

Meet DAVID VANCE .... in the eyes of the beholder


Photographers, like artists/painters,  share many characteristics that some might find more just plainly obvious. Most artists or creatives are known to develop a particular style in the representation of their chosen subject matter on which they focus on but the common thread that truly connects these creatives even closer is the process in which they can be equated as being curators of their singular “museum.”


 It’s true that lensmen, like painters, have worked to support themselves in trying times  with less than ideal commissions but these are rarely the works that are ever remembered. The most distinguished and memorable images are those that represent a personal or particular affinity for the artist which has been infused into the finished work. Vance is not always easy to pin down in terms of style but there exists a commonality, for the most part, which is that he offers you the opportunity to visually explore some incredible examples of beautiful men who have worked hard to create their own body of work … pun intended.
click image to enlarge
click image to enlarge


 This series of interviews opens the door for photographers to speak about what and why they do what they do or in other words... their modus operandi. As you will find out it’s not all about beefcake and muscle as Vance speaks openly about his profession and his choices.
click image to enlarge


 I must thank Hervé Godard of Blake men (https://www.blakemag.com ) for the introduction to these talented photographers and look forward to shedding some light on the art of photography and not just the “photographers of Instagram” …. Or as I call then … snap shot photographers.
click image to enlarge


Here in his own words is David Vance


JF: How would you say the internet and social media, especially Instagram, have affected the way you go about setting up a shoot in terms of “subject,” location or boundaries

DV:Instagram has afforded me an additional platform by which I can reach more prospective talent. I have an additional place to display my work. I like to say; there are models willing to cross the ocean to shoot with me, and some who wouldn’t cross the street. It keeps me humble. You’d be amazed by the number of people I contact who never even respond. As far as location, these days I tend to prefer my own studio and locations with which I’m familiar. Boundaries… what are those?
click image to enlarge



JF:Much has been written about creatives who have a signature look; would you say you have one?

DV:I think so, although it seems to be more apparent to others than it is to me. Want one? And why?

I think my work is primarily romantic, impressionistic and sensual… maybe a bit dramatic at times.  My images seem to convey a sense of motion even when the subject is still.

My main influence is my Italian heritage. I was raised on religious art and Opera.

A friend who worked as my assistant years ago wrote this: “The photography of David Vance conveys a sense of beauty that is immortal and innocent. One senses that the soul of David Vance is more important to the photography than the camera. A quiet strength is interwoven with even the softest of his studies of the female form. A certain delicacy is sensed in his powerful portfolio of the male nude.” Bernard Lynch
click image to enlarge



JF:If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

DV:The expected answer to this question is 5 famous people living or dead… but I don’t put much value in fame. The people I would choose are my parents who are deceased and also friends that have left this earth too soon. I have unanswered questions and unspoken conversations. Oh, and of course a really great chef.
click image to enlarge




JF:What would you say has been your most rewarding or fulfilling assignment to date and why?

That would have to be the work I was fortunate to do with HARPERS BAZAAR ITALIA and UOMO BAZAAR. I worked with a great fashion editor, Stephanie Richardson, and many talented models, stylists and hair and makeup professionals. The locations, the clothes, everything was provided. We worked in Rome and Milan, in studio and on location around Italy. It spoiled me for the current editorial platform. Everything is different now.

These days I concentrate on making beautiful photos that hopefully will end up in a coffee table book.  I am currently entertaining the possibility of doing a KICKSTARTER campaign for my next book, MENANDWATER.
click image to enlarge


JF:You have said that you prefer to photograph models who are involved in fitness; why that preference and do you find that they make good subjects and why or why not?
DV:Since I like photographing bodies it makes sense to find the best bodies. Fitness models by nature of the title are the ones that have the best bodies. They are dedicated to being in the best shape possible and they are generally at least a bit exhibitionistic. They like to show it. I like to shoot it. Makes sense to me. With all that being said, I’m really a sucker for a beautiful face. I always have been. I started making portraits of my family when I was just 14. If I have someone with a great body and an O.K. face, I always struggle to make sure the face is photographed to match the beauty of the body.

I also really love photographing athletes, dancers and acrobats. I admire grace, agility and strength. When I am inspired it’s far easier to create magic.
click image to enlarge